Emulsifying Wax NF (Ingredient Encyclopedia)
- taralee
- Apr 29, 2024
- 4 min read
Emulsifying Wax NF / Emulsifying Wax - is a non-ionic All-in-one Emulsifier that comes in white pellets or flakes that need melted to be used. Since it’s an emulsifier it blends oil and water together and also thickens. Emulsifying Wax is oil soluble and is added into the heated oil phase. Use in lotions, creams & moisturizers to create simple and easy stable emulsions for beginners. Can also be used in hair conditioners, bars, scrubs, body butters, etc.
INCI; Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 or Emulsifying Wax NF
Cetearyl Alcohol 70% - 80%
Polysorbate 60 20% - 30%
Benefits - helps blend oil and water together to create a cream/lotion consistency. Can also be used as a hardener/thickener in anhydrous products. Adds slip and moisture to skin.
What products to use it in - Lotions / Creams / Moisturizers, Scrubs, Hair Conditioners, Bars, Body Butters, Spray On Lotion and more. Works as a hardener/thickener for anhydrous products.
Why you would use in a product - to bind together oil and water to create a moisturizer/cream/lotion. Or act as a hardener for anhydrous products.
Solubility - Oil Soluble
Usage Rate - (Check with the supplier you purchase yours from) For mine, it’s "Recommended to add at a rate of approx. 25% of your oil phase plus 1%- for example, if your formulation has 24% oils (not including emulsifying wax), then divide 24% by 4, which equal 6. You want to add 6% +1% = 7% emulsifying wax to your oil phase. The usage rates are typically about 3-5% by mass for lotions and 5-10% for creams.”
Solid Conditioner Bars or Lotion Bars 1-30%
Spray on Lotions 1-2%
Charge - Non-ionic Surfactant
HLB - 14.9
Must know! - Emulsifying Wax can preform differently depending on which supplier you buy it from. Every supplier doesn’t have the same emulsifying wax. Some may thicken more than others. So always do a test batch if you switch suppliers. There are also other ingredients sold under the name “emulsifying wax” but are not this ingredient. So make sure you check the INCI to see if it also says “Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 or Emulsifying Wax NF” if not, then it is not this emulsifying wax and does not perform the same.
How to Formulate with it - Add into heated oil phase with any other non heat sensitive ingredients. If being used as an emulsifier, also heat up any non heat sensitive water soluble ingredients in a separate container. Once they are around the same temperature you can pour the water into the oil and mix using an Immersion Blender. Let cool and add in non heat sensitive ingredients. If being used as an anhydrous hardener / thickener, melt it with all the other non heat sensitive oil soluble ingredients and let it re solidify.
Melting Point - 50°C – 54°C (122°F - 129°F)
pH as supplied - 5.5 – 7.0
pH it’s stable in - 3 - 12
Appearance - White Waxy Pellets or Flakes
Shelf Life - 2 years (check with your supplier)
Heat Sensitive? - No
Vegan? - Yes
Ecocert? - Nope
Cosmos? - Nope
Natural? - Nope
Emulsions - Add into heated oil phase with any other non heat sensitive ingredients. If being used as an emulsifier, also heat up any non heat sensitive water soluble ingredients in a separate container. Once they are around the same temperature you can pour the water into the oil and mix using an Immersion Blender. Let cool and add in non heat sensitive ingredients.
Watery Solutions (Toners, Essences, Serums, Cleansers/Washes) - Isn’t used in these types of products. Although you could use it to make a liquid-thin emulsion (use at around 2%) with a small amount of oil(3%) and pour it into a spray bottle for a spray on lotion. Could also be used to make an emulsified serum. (Basically a really thin lotion but marketed as a serum) this way if you want to make a serum with oils you can incorporated them by making a thin emulsion. You could also use emulsifying wax NF for a milky face wash. This way you can incorporate a little oil into a face wash.
Personal Opinion - This emulsifies is perfect for beginners. I’ve never had a failed formula using it. I also love using it when experimenting with new to me ingredients. It’s such an easy to use and vary stable emulsifiers. So it’s a must have!
Substitutions - A lot of different all-in-one emulsifiers could work in place of emulsifying wax, as long as it’s stable in the formula. For example, if you are using emulsifying wax NF in a lotion containing an AHA that means your lotion has a low pH, so you need to make sure the emulsifier you choose to use instead also works in a low pH. Montanov 68 MB is good if you need one with a low pH. If the pH of you lotion isn’t low then you could use Ritamulse SCG / EcoMulse, Olivem 1000, Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate / Lotionpro 165, or even BTMS 50. There are a lot of all-in-one emulsifiers out there. So a lot of things could work in place of it. Just depends on what it is you are making.
Known Irritations or Side Effects - Mild irritation could occur in sensitive individuals, but if burning, irritation, stinging, or redness occurs when using this ingredient discontinue use. Always do a patch test before trying a new ingredient.
FDA Regulations - There are no regulations for this ingredient. Just use it within the safe amount.
How it’s Sourced - Cetearyl Alcohol is a combination of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol. According to Puracy.com Cetyl Alcohol is sourced from coconut, palm, or vegetable oil.
and Stearyl Alcohol also comes from coconut and palm kernel oils.
According to cosmetics.specialchem.com Polysorbate 60 “is produced through the ethoxylation process, involving the reaction of sorbitol, derived from corn syrup, with oleic acid, typically obtained from vegetable sources.”
Where to purchase Emulsifying Wax NF;
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