I tried many formulas before I tried this one. This formula ended up being the closest I could get to a lip stain, at least for now. I have some ideas to make it more of an actual stain rather than just a tint, but I wanted to share this for now.
Formula;
phase A
86.3% distilled water
0.4% sepimax zen
0.8% phenoxyethanol SA
5% glycerin
phase B
3% castor oil
3% polysorbate 20
0.5% red no. 6 D&C Lake
0.5% flavor oil
0.5% vitamin E
Directions;
combine all ingredients in phase A adding the sepimax zen last. Let it sit on the surface of the water to hydrate. Depending on your batch size will determine how long it takes. I made a 30 gram batch and it took about 30 minutes to hydrate. You'll know it's hydrated when you can no longer see the white powder.
while the sepimax zen is hydrating in phase A you can work on phase B
combine all ingredients in phase B in order and mix in between each ingredient
once phase A is hydrated you can pour phase A into phase B and mix
pour into desired tube. I used a lip gloss tube but didn't put on the rubber stopper.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
sepimax zen - thickens lip stain and emulsifies the color and oils
phenoxyethanol SA - preservative
glycerin - humectant
castor oil - moisturizing agent. also works as a dispersing agent for the coloring.
polysorbate 20 - emusifying agent, solubilizer, and dispersing agent. Helps disperse the color into the product. The color will stay little specks through out the product unless you use it.
red no. 6 D&C Lake - coloring. This is a water insoluble product. so is not water soluble. only soluble in oil
flavor oil - adds flavor to the lip stain.
vitamin E - antioxidant
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
sepimax zen - as of now I don't have a sub
phenoxyethanol SA - no sub. This is the only lip safe preservative I know of
glycerin - any other humectant like propanedial
castor oil - any carrier oil you would like to use should be fine
polysorbate 20 - poly 80 would probably work or peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
red no. 6 D&C Lake - any lake coloring. MakingCosmetics.com sells some others.
flavor oil - any flavor oil or leave out
vitamin E - do sub, but you can leave out
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