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DIY Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner


Formula

Phase A


Phase B

76.3% Distilled Water

2% Betaine Salicylate (FSS Beet SA Powder)


300 gram Recipe

Phase A

12 grams Glycerin


Phase B

228.9 grams Distilled Water

3 grams Skullcap

3 grams Sugar Cane

6 grams Betaine Salicylate (FSS Beet SA Powder)



Directions;

  • In a sanitized container, start by combining the glycerin and HA in phase A and mix. Set to the side 

  • Grab another sanitized container and combine all ingredients in phase B in order, mixing after you add each one. All of the powders should dissolve easily and your product should be clear in the end. If product is cloudy, let sit until it has cleared. 

  • Check and adjust pH. Keep between 4-5.5 (mine was around 4.17 so I kept it there. Gluconolactone has a lower pH which can drift, so it would be a good idea to periodically check the pH of this toner to make sure it doesn’t get too low.)

  • Pour into desired container. I used this 4oz frosted glass pump bottle  



How to use; Pour onto hand and pat into skin, or pump directly onto skin and pat into skin, or apply to cotton round and pat onto skin, whichever application you prefer. Apply after cleansing, but before moisturizing or serum. I recommend to only use at night since it exfoliates the skin it can cause skin to be more sensitive to the sun, so make sure you are applying sunscreen. If trying to combat a skin concern you can use morning and night, as this is a very gentle exfoliant, but make sure it’s not too much for your skin. You don’t want to over exfoliate. 




Benefits of Each Ingredient;

Glycerin - Humectant. Hydrates the skin

ULMW Hyaluronic Acid - plumps skin, hydrates skin, reduces fine lines & wrinkles, and is naturally found in skin.

Tea Tree Hydrosol - has been known to help with acne, dry skin, & wound healing 

Watermelon Extract - high in antioxidants, Vitamin A, and Vitamin C, which can help reduce skin inflammation, improve skin pigmentation, and promote healthy collagen production.

Prickly Pear Extract - rich in vitamin A, vitamin C, calcium and potassium. Also contains tannins, flavonoids, betanins and alkaloids.

Willow Bark Extract - exfoliates skin, non irritating, anti-microbial.

Licorice Extract - brightens skin, soothes skin

Skullcap - said to help reduce oil on hair and skin. Anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and antibacterial. 

Sweet Potato Extract - can help promote clearer more youthful looking skin. Is abundant in vitamins and minerals (potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, zinc, vitamin B, and vitamin C)

Cucumber Extract - soothes skin, moisturizing, has vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium, vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate, pantothenic acid, magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese.

Sugar Cane - conditioning

Hibiscus Extract - high in antioxidants,  Flavonoids, & Vitamin C

Liquid Germall Plus - Broad Spectrum Water Soluble Preservative 

Betaine Salicylate (FSS Beet SA Powder) - considered an alternative to salicylic acid, but more gentle on the skin and moisturizing. This is derived from sugar beets.

Gluconolactone - is known as a PHA that is more gentle than AHAs or BHAs. So this helps gentle exfoliate the skin without irritating. Could help fade dark spots, unclog pores and improves overall look of skin. Is an antioxidant, moisturizer, pH adjuster, and is a chelating agent. Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is non-irritating. 



Substitutes;

ULMW Hyaluronic Acid - any hyaluronic acid should work, but keep in mind that the higher the weight of HA the more it will thicken the product. 

Tea Tree Hydrosol - tea tree extract or use another hydrosol of choice 

Watermelon Extract - another extract of choice. Apple, Broccoli, or Guava extract would be good as it also has Vitamin A, C and is an antioxidant, but any water soluble extract you like, will work

Prickly Pear Extract - another extract of choice.

Skullcap - Olive Leaf Extract or other extract of choice.

Sweet Potato Extract - Jackfruit Extract or other extract of choice.

Cucumber Extract - Chamomile Extract, Calendula Extract or other extract of choice

Sugar Cane -  Coltsfoot Extract, Passion Fruit Extract or other extract of choice

Liquid Germall Plus - This is the easiest preservative to use for watery solution products. A lot of other preservatives that claim to be water soluble still need some kind of solubilizer to help mix into water. Sometimes you can use Glycerin or Propanediol but other times you need something like Polysorbate 80. You could use Euxyl PE 9010 or Opiphen Plus but those will need mixed with Glycerin, Propanediol, or Polysorbate 80 

Betaine Salicylate (FSS Beet SA Powder) - no alternative. If you use salicylic acid instead, you will need to add in a pH adjuster to raise the pH. See my salicylic acid recipes

Gluconolactone - no alternative. But fruit acid complex could work.

 Sodium Polyglutamate - since this is a humectant you could use a different humectant like Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol.


Below I have attached a PDF file of this blog that you can download and print out.


I've also attached an excel spreadsheet so you can change the Batch Size of this product and it will instantly calculate your recipe.







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