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Ecocert / Natural Vitamin C Face Moisturizer w/ Ascorbyl Glucoside

All ingredients are considered “Natural” or Ecocert. (Check with supplier) 

See substitutions section for substitutes.


Batch size calculator for the recipe is attached at the bottom of page along with the PDF blog you can print.


Formula;


Phase A


Phase B


Phase C


pH adjusting;

Ascorbyl Glucoside has a natural pH between 2-3 so it will create a moisturizer with a low pH. I recommend formulating with an emulsifier that is active in low pH levels, like Montanov 202, that way your emulsion is stable and you can do any pH adjusting at the end of formula. 


Once you have a formula you like using Ascorbyl Glucoside, you can add the pH buffer in the formula. For example, my experiment was a 100 gram batch that had a pH of 3.24, and I needed to add in 0.60 grams of my pH buffer (10% Sodium Hydroxide dissolved in 90% distilled water) to raise the pH to 6. When I rewrote my formula I added the 0.6% of my pH buffer into my formula. You might not need that amount, just depends on what pH buffer you use. You can use a 10% dilution of Sodium Hydroxide or Triethanolamine to raise the pH. Triethanolamine is not considered natural or ecocert. Sodium Hydroxide isn’t natural either, but from my research, I do believe it’s okay to use in natural and ecocert products as a pH adjuster.



Directions;

  • In a sanitized heat proof container, combine all ingredients in phase A and mix. (I have went ahead and added the pH buffer in my formula based on my experiments before hand)

  • In another sanitized heat proof container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.

  • Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.

  • Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.) 



  • Let both phase A & B heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B and all powder has dissolved in phase A.

  • Once phase A & B are heated to 70°C / 158°F.  Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.

  • Remove phase B from heat

  • Pour phase A into phase B and mix with an Immersion Blender

  • Come back and mix periodically as the lotion cools, but don’t mix again once it has started to thicken.

  • In another sanitized beaker, combine the Ascorbyl Glucoside, Licorice Extract and distilled water and mix until dissolved. Pour into lotion once it has cooled to 40°C / 104°F. Then add in the rest of the ingredients in phase C and mix. 



  • Check and adjust pH to between 5-7. The natural pH of mine was 3.48.  I used a pH buffer solution of 10% Sodium Hydroxide dissolved in 90% distilled water. Learn how to create a pH buffer solution and raise the pH HERE. Once you know how much pH buffer you need, you can incorporate that amount into the formula 



  • Let lotion sit overnight before packaging and check pH again the next day to make sure it didn’t drift. 

  • Pour moisturizer in desired jar. I like these jars HERE. 


Benefits/Uses of Ingredients;


Distilled Water - Diluent 


Glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin


Propanediol - humectant that hydrates the skin


Sodium Phytate - Chelating agent. Helps stabilize formula. Read more about Chelating Agents HERE


pH Buffer (10% Sodium Hydroxide Dilution) - Raises the pH Learn how to adjust pH and make pH buffer HERE


Montanov 68 MB (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) - Ecocert Compliant all in one emulsifier. This emulsifier is non-ionic and is a liquid crystal emulsifier.


Cetyl Alcohol - is a thickener that brings slip and glide to our products. It gives a creamy feeling to the product, and it’s a great emollient.


Sweet Almond Oil - emollient 


Lemon Peel Oil FSS - this is different from lemon essential oil. This is not phytotoxic. This oil is said to “helps enhance the clarity and glow of the skin”


Ascorbyl Glucoside - an antioxidant, helps slow down melanin production and promotes collagen. Is commonly used in products that help with hyperpigmentation and help even skin tone. Is popular in Korean and Japanese skincare.


Licorice Extract - said to have a gentle brightening and soothing action. Is said to help fade sun damage and hyper-pigmentation safely for all skin tones.


Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) - Ecocert Approved Preservative


Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50) - Antioxidant 




Substitutes;

These are only suggestions. Further testing needs done if you are using any substitutes. Substituting ingredients may result in the need to change the formulating process or recalculate the formula.


Distilled Water - aloe vera liquid or a hydrosol of choice. 




Sodium Phytate - I don’t know of other ecocert approved chelating agents. Disodium EDTA would work, but it isn’t Ecocert.


pH Buffer (10% Sodium Hydroxide Dilution) - Triethanolamine, but it is not Ecocert


Montanov 68 MB (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) - Olivem 1000 if you want to stay Ecocert. Otherwise Emulsifying Wax NF would work. Just make sure the emulsifier works in low pH levels since Ascorbyl Glucoside has a really low pH 


Cetyl Alcohol - Behenyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol or other fatty acid or fatty alcohol of choice. 


Sweet Almond Oil - any oil of choice


Lemon Peel Oil FSS - any oil of choice




Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) - Euxyl K 903, Geogard 221 or Tristate Eco if you want to stay ecocert. Otherwise Liquid Germall Plus, Optiphen Plus, or Euxyl PE 9010 will work. Make sure the preservative works between 5-7


Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50) - no sub



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