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Brightening Capsule Cream Formula w/ Vit C & Arbutin

A capsule cream consists of 2 separate formulas. The Gel phase and the Cream phase. The gel needs to be made with gelling agents that are suspending agents. The gel phase also needs to be thick enough to keep the capsules in place. As for the cream part, it needs to be thin enough to be piped into little capsule balls, but not too thin that the balls don’t keep their shape well enough. 


Let’s start with the Gel Base

Gel Base Formula for Brightening Capsule Cream

Phase A


Phase B

Disclaimer; this gel didn’t turn out as thick as I wanted. I recommend increasing the carbomer to 0.2%.


Directions;

  • In a sanitized beaker begin by adding in all of the ingredients in phase A one by one, mixing after each addition. Make sure you mix the powdered ingredients in until fully dissolved.

  • Weigh out the Sodium Carbomer & Aristroflex AVC on a Watch Glass or in a separate vessel.

  • Create a vortex by mixing the water or using a magnetic stirrer and sprinkle in the Sodium Carbomer & Aristroflex AVC. It may clump up. This is okay. Cover and let sit overnight. 

  • The next day your gel should be completely hydrated and turned into a thick gel. If you want to add color you can drop in a few drops of a water soluble color.  


Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;

  • Distilled Water - diluent 

  • Liquid Germall Plus - preservative 

  • DL Panthenol - aka vitamin B5 is an excellent humectant that hydrates and moisturizes the skin. It can help restore and maintain skins moisture.

  • Niacinamide - aka Vit B3. Can help improve the overall appearance of skin. Helps with dull skin, enlarged pores, dark spots, fine lines etc. Great ingredient for all skin types and daily use. Commonly used in brightening products as well. 

  • N - Acetyl Glucosamine, NAG - Skin Brightener - (read about here) This ingredient doesn't change the pH, it isn't pH sensitive, it dissolves and mixes into water easily, so it makes it perfect for beginners. Said to help moisturize the skin, reduce TEWL, increase HA production in skin, repairs sun damage, brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone and more.

  • Glycerin - Humectant. Hydrates the skin

  • Propanediol - Humectant. Hydrates the skin

  • Propylene Glycol - Humectant. Hydrates the skin

  • Sodium Carbomer - thickens to a gel and acts as a suspending agent.  Blending multiple gelling agents creates better results than using only one.

  • Aristroflex AVC - thickens to a gel and acts as a suspending agent. Blending multiple gelling agents creates better results than using only one.


Substitutes;

Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.



Next Let’s make the Lotion

Brightening Lotion Formula w/ Vit C & Arbutin for Capsule Cream

Phase A


Phase B


Phase C


Directions;

  • In a heat safe and sanitized container mix together the phase A ingredients.  

  • Tare scale and write down how much phase A weighs. (Including the beakers weight too) we are going to heat everything up and some of the water is going to evaporate. We will need to replace that water loss after it’s heated.

  • Combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe sanitized container.

  • Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place it over your stove top on medium heat. (this is called a water bath)

  • Cover both phase A and phase B with foil and place in the water bath. 

  • Heat until phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature. 70°C/158°F Olivem 1000 is a little trickier to melt. You will need to mix it periodically to help it melt and keep it between 70°C-80°C for about 5-10 minutes in order to get it to melt fully. 

  • Now remove phase A from heat and place on scale and replace any water that evaporated. Normally it's about 1 gram or less. 

  • Remove phase B from heat and then pour phase A into phase B. (Pour water phase into oil phase)

  • Immediately mix with an immersion blender/stick blender. & Let Cool (don’t mix with immersion blender again once it starts to thicken. This can add too much air into the lotion) 

  • In another sanitized beaker, combine the distilled water and Alpha Arbutin and mix until dissolved.

  • Once the lotion has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the dissolved Alpha Arbutin and the rest of the ingredients in phase C and mix until combined. 

  • Let sit overnight covered with Plastic Wrap to fully cool before piping into the gel base. 


How to pipe capsules into the Gel

  1. Pour your lotion into a piping bag and cut off the tip.

  2. Pipe the lotion into a sterile oral syringe. Use a syringe that has a long and narrow tip. 


     

  3. Push out a bit of the lotion first, in order to get better control when piping the capsules.

  4. Fill your jar of choice 3/4 of the way full with your gel.

  5. Starting on the outer edge of the jar, put the syringe all the way to the bottom of the jar and pipe your first capsule, move up a bit to pipe the next capsule, and continue doing this until you reach the top of the jar. 

  6. Work in a circular motion around the outer edge of the jar and work your way into the middle when piping the capsules. (I recommend watching the video for the demonstration) 

  7. Make sure the jars are filled all the way to the top with gel. This way it locks everything in and will keep the capsules from moving around.  


Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;

  • Distilled Water - diluent 

  • Glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin 

  • Propanediol - humectant that hydrates the skin

  • Betaine - humectant and moisturizer and can help enhance the skins barrier function. Has been shown to help with decreasing transepidermal water loss. Does not leave a sticky feeling on skin. Helps increase the solubility of allantoin and salicylic acid in water. It can also help with reducing the irritation in foaming surfactant based products.

  • Olivem 1000 - emulsifier that blends oil and water together. This is considering natural and ecocert.

  • Glyceryl Stearate - co emulsifier. Has a low HLB and can help lower the soaping effect. Check out my post to learn more about HLB and my other post to learn more about reducing soaping in lotion 

  • Cetearyl Alcohol - co emulsifier that helps stabilize emulsions. Learn more about co emulsifiers and methods to stabilize emulsions HERE. 

  • Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - emollient that moisturizes the skin. 

  • Squalane - non-greasy oil soluble emollient that is capable of mixing with sebum present on the skin.

  • Jojoba Oil - natural oil to moisturize skin. 

  • Ethylhexyl Palmitate - claims to help add a silky feel to products. Its a non oily emollient that moisturizes skin. 

  • Alpha Arbutin - "It is the more effective, faster and safer approach to promoting skin-brightening and an even skin tone on all skin types. also minimizes liver spots and meets all the requirements of a modern skin-brightening and skin depigmentation product." According to lotioncrafter

  • Hyaluronic Acid 4D - INCI; Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aqua. A blend of 4 different types of hyaluronic acids. Hyaluronic Acid is a humectant that helps hydrate the skin.

  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C)

  • Vitamin E - antioxidant 

  • Liquid Germall Plus - preservative.



Substitutes;

Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.






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