Sol de Janeiro Inspired Shampoo & Conditioner Formula
- taralee

- 4 days ago
- 7 min read
Sol de Janeiro Inspired Shampoo Formula;

Phase A
0.5% GuarCat (INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride)
3% Glycerin
66.3% Distilled Water
0.2% Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD)
0.3% pH adjuster 50/50 Citric Acid/Distilled water (to lower pH to activate GuarCat
Phase B
10% AOS 40 (INCI: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate)
3% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
1.5% Cocamide MIPA
Phase C
Phase D
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate)
Directions;
In a sanitized container, combine the GuarCat & Glycerin in phase A to make a slurry.

In another sanitized heat safe container combine the distilled water & Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate & mix.
Pour the GuarCat & Glycerin slurry into the distilled water & Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate while mixing.

If your solution is still water thin, then add in the pH adjuster (GuarCat thickens in a pH under 7, so your formula needs to be below 7 to gel. (Learn more HERE)
Once your phase A is complete and you have a gel, you can add in all the ingredients in phase B. (Wear a respirator when weighing the SCI)
In another heat safe sanitized container, combine all the ingredient in phase C in any order.
Cover both beakers with foil and place in a water bath. (A pan filled with an inch or so of water over stove top on medium heat)

Once everything in the phase C is melted and everything in phase A/B is nice and smooth remove from heat and pour the phase A/B in phase C while mixing. No need to use an immersion blender, just hand mix.
Let cool until 100°F /40°C and add in the phase D ingredients in any order. Mix and let cool over night before pouring in desired container. I used this pink squeeze bottle HERE. Holds 6.8 oz

Check and adjust pH if needed. Mine was 5.8 in the end. Keep between 4-6.

Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;
Distilled Water - diluent
Glycerin - humectant
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD) - Ecocert Chelating Agent. (Learn all about Chelating Agents HERE)
GuarCat (INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) - cationic gum, thickening / gelling agent. (Learn more HERE)
pH adjuster 50/50 Citric Acid/Distilled water - to lower pH to activate GuarCat
AOS 40 (INCI: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate) - anionic surfactant that adds foam and lather
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - amphoteric co surfactant that adds foam and boosts lather
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - anionic surfactant that helps create lather and foam
Cocamide MIPA - thickener and helps create a rich lather (boosts foam)
Glycol Distearate / Natural Pearlizer - EGDS - helps give lather and a pearly effect. Helps create a creamy consistency.
Cupuacu Butter - butter used in the sol de janeiro shampoo used as an emollient to moisturize hair, but used as a small percentage. More used for marketing purposes.
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride - emollient to moisturize hair. I used at a small amount as I do not like a lot of oil in my shampoos.
Sorbitan Oleate - refatting agent. Helps stabilize formula and can add anti-static hair benefits.
polyquaternium 7 - cationic conditioner, anti-static agent, helps soothe hair and detangle
Cheirosa 62 Fragrance oil - dupe of the fragrance oil in the sol de janeiro shampoo
Liquid Germall Plus - preservative
Substitutes;
Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.
Distilled Water - hydrosol or aloe vera gel (these usually have a lower pH, this can effect the viscosity of the gel.
Glycerin - Propanediol 1,3
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD) - Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate
GuarCat (INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) - xanthan gum maybe, but personally I don’t like it in hair products.
AOS 40 - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES), or you can try just using the SCI and increasing the percentage of the Cocamidopropyl Betaine & Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - try Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coco Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA), Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate
Cocamide MIPA - I don’t know. But you can try making it without this.
Glycol Distearate / Natural Pearlizer - EGDS -I don’t know. But you can try making it without this.
Cupuacu Butter - any butter of choice.
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride - any oil or emollient of choice.
Sorbitan Oleate - Glyceryl Oleate or leave out.
polyquaternium 7 - Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-10, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey or a hydrolyzed protein.
Cheirosa 62 Fragrance oil - any fragrance oil of choice.
Liquid Germall Plus - Learn all about preservatives HERE to figure out which would be the right choice for your formula. e.g. Euxyl PE 9010, Opiphen Plus, Geogard ECT. Keep in mind changing the preservative could change the clarity of the product. Some preservatives also need mixed with a solubilizer of solvent to mix into water. Make adjustments to the formula if needed to accommodate a different preservative.

Sol de Janeiro Inspired Conditioner Formula;
Phase A
79.3% Distilled Water
3% Glycerin
0.2% Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD)
Phase B
4% Conditioning Emulsifier - BTMC (INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride, Isopropanol)
Phase C
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate)
Directions;
In a sanitized heat safe container, combine all ingredients in phase A.

In another heat safe container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.
Tare your scale and weigh phase A. Write down how much it weighs. We are going to be heating it up and some of the water may evaporate and we will need to replace that water loss after heating.

Cover both phase A and phase B with foil and place in a water bath. (A pan with water placed over your stove top.)
Heat until phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature. (You will need to mix it periodically to help it melt and keep it between 70°C-80°C for about 5-10 minutes in order to get it to melt fully. )
Now remove phase A from heat and place on scale and replace any water that evaporated. Normally it's about 1 gram or less.
For phase B, keep in the heat, the waxes kept hardening to the sides of the beaker. I had to pour phase A into phase B while it was still heating and mix with the immersion blender under heat. Then I removed it from heat.

Allow your conditioner to cool to 100°F /40°C and add in the phase C ingredients in any order. Mix and let cool over night before pouring in desired container. I used these pink 300 ml pump bottles
Check and adjust pH. Natural pH should be around 5. Keep between 4-5.5

Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;
Distilled Water - hydrosol or aloe vera gel (these usually have a lower pH, this can effect the viscosity of the gel.
Glycerin - Propanediol 1,3
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD) - Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate
Cetearyl Alcohol - co emulsifier, fatty alcohol, thickener, moisturizes hair
Conditioning Emulsifier - BTMC (INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride, Isopropanol) - main ingredient that is conditioning and softening the hair.
Cupuacu Butter - butter used in the sol de janeiro shampoo used as an emollient to moisturize hair, but used as a small percentage. More used for marketing purposes.
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride - emollient to moisturize hair. I used at a small amount as I do not like a lot of oil in my shampoos.
cetrimonium chloride - cationic conditioning agent, reduces frizz, & detangles hair.
polyquaternium 7 - cationic conditioner, anti-static agent, helps soothe hair and detangle
Cheirosa 62 Fragrance oil - dupe of the fragrance oil in the sol de janeiro shampoo
Liquid Germall Plus - preservative
Substitutes;
Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.
Distilled Water - hydrosol or aloe vera gel (these usually have a lower pH, this can effect the viscosity of the gel.
Glycerin - Propanediol 1,3
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD) - Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate
Conditioning Emulsifier - BTMC (INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride, Isopropanol) - BTMS 50.
Cupuacu Butter - any butter of choice.
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride - any oil or emollient of choice.
cetrimonium chloride - Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-10, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey or a hydrolyzed protein.
polyquaternium 7 - Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-10, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey or a hydrolyzed protein.
Cheirosa 62 Fragrance oil - any fragrance oil of choice.
Liquid Germall Plus - Learn all about preservatives HERE to figure out which would be the right choice for your formula. e.g. Euxyl PE 9010, Opiphen Plus, Geogard ECT. Keep in mind changing the preservative could change the clarity of the product. Some preservatives also need mixed with a solubilizer of solvent to mix into water. Make adjustments to the formula if needed to accommodate a different preservative.
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