Everything You Can Make with BTMS 50

taralee
Apr 24, 2024
6 min read

A couple months ago I posted a video titled “Best Lotion Emulsifiers for Beginners” & in that video I said that BTMS 50 is the best emulsifier for beginners who are on a budget. So in todays video I am going to explain exactly why that is and share with you how many different products you can actually make using BTMS 50. I am also going to share with you 4 different recipes using BTMS 50.

I created a formulating for beginners series so I can teach beginners everything they need to know to start formulating. As a part of that formulating for beginners series I’ve been working on a section all about Emulsifiers for beginners. If you want to know more about emulsifiers I recommend watching this video here. BTMS 50 is an emulsifier so it’s important to understand what an emulsifier is before reading this post. Watching all my beginners content first will make it much easier for you to understand what’s going on in this post.

BTMS 50 is an all in one emulsifier and it is also a cationic surfactant. This means it helps blend together oil and water to make a cream/lotion consistency. Since it is Cationic, this means it has conditioning properties. So since BTMS 50 conditions and it emulsifies this means it is the perfect ingredient to make hair conditioning products. You can make conditioner bars, liquid conditioners, leave-in conditioner sprays, cream leave-in conditioners, deep conditioners, conditioning hair masks, and more. Not only can you make all these hair conditioning products, but BTMS 50 makes the perfect shaving products as well; Shaving Bars, Creams, Etc. & of course we can make lotions. Liquid lotions, creams, butters, lotions bars, anhydrous butters and it can even be used as a hardener in scrubs.

As you can see, there are so many things you can make with BTMS 50! The only thing you need to keep in mind when formulating with it, is you can not use it with anionic surfactants. Other than that have fun formulating!

So lets start off with making the easier product in this post.

Shaving Bar Formula

(doubles as a Hair Conditioner Bar)

phase A

25% BTMS 50
30% Cetearyl Alcohol
10% Shea Butter (Refined)
10% Aloe Butter
10% Coconut Oil
14.8% Rice Bran Oil

phase B

0.2% Vitamin E

Directions;

Combine all ingredients in a heat safe container.
Cover with foil and place in a water bath. (Water Bath: Fill a pan with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
You may need to come back periodically to mix to help melt everything.
Once everything is melted you can remove from heat
After you remove from heat, you can add in the ingredients in phase B and mix. Do this before phase A starts to harden.
Grab your mold of choice and pour into molds.
Let sit over night and remove from mold the next day. You can use these bars immediately after removing from the mold.

Mold I used

Menthol Liquid Conditioner

(can double as a Shaving Liquid)

Phase A

70.3% Distilled Water
5% Glycerin
3% Polyquaternium-7

phase B

phase C

5% Distilled Water
2% DL Panthenol
1.5% Optiphen Plus
0.2% Vitamin E

Directions;

In a sanitized heat safe container, combine all ingredients in phase A.
In another sanitized heat safe container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.
Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.
Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
Let both phase A & B heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B.
While phase A & B are heating we can work on phase C
Combine the distilled water and DL panthenol first and mix until dissolved before adding in everything else. Set aside until later.
Once phase A & B are heated to 70°C / 158°F. Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.
Remove phase B from heat
Pour phase A into phase B and mix with an Immersion Blender
Come back and mix periodically as the conditioner cools, but don’t mix again once it has started to thicken.
Once the conditioner has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase C ingredients and mix.
Check and adjust pH if needed (mine didn’t need adjusted) (keep between 4-5.5)
Pour into desired container.
I poured my conditioner into a piping bag that way it was much easier to squeeze into an 8 oz pump bottle.

Soothing Body Lotion

Phase A

70.8% Distilled Water

5% Propanediol 1,3
0.5% Allantoin

phase B

phase C

5% Distilled Water
1% DL Panthenol
1.5% Optiphen Plus
0.2% Vitamin E

Directions;

In a sanitized heat safe container, combine all ingredients in phase A and mix. Allantoin will not dissolve until heated.
In another sanitized heat safe container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.
Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.
Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
Let both phase A & B heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B and all powder has dissolved in phase A
While phase A & B are heating we can work on phase C
Combine the distilled water and DL Panthenol first and mix until dissolved before adding in everything else. Set aside until later.
Once phase A & B are heated to 70°C / 158°F. Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.
Remove phase B from heat
Pour phase A into phase B and mix with an Immersion Blender
Come back and mix periodically as the lotion cools, but don’t mix again once it has started to thicken.
Once the lotion has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase C ingredients.
Check and adjust pH if needed (mine didn’t need adjusted) (keep between 4-5.5)
Pour into desired container.
I poured my lotion into a piping bag that way it was much easier to squeeze into an 8 oz pump bottle.

Spray Leave-In Conditioner

Phase A

85.8% Distilled Water

3% Glycerin
1% Polyquaternium-7

phase B

1% BTMS 50
2% Almond Oil

phase C

5% Distilled Water
1% DL Panthenol
1% Optiphen Plus
0.2% Vitamin E

Directions;

In a sanitized heat safe container, combine all ingredients in phase A.
In another sanitized heat safe container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.
Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.
Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
Let both phase A & B heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B.
While phase A & B are heating we can work on phase C
Combine the distilled water and DL panthenol first and mix until dissolved before adding in everything else. Set aside until later.
Once phase A & B are heated to 70°C / 158°F. Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.
Instead of removing phase B from heat, keep it in the water bath while you pour the phase A into phase B. Hand mix and then you can remove from heat and mix with an Immersion Blender. If you remove phase B from the heat the BTMS 50 will start to harden to the beaker too quickly.
Come back and mix periodically as the leave-in conditioner cools.
Once the conditioner has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase C ingredients and mix.
Check and adjust pH if needed (mine didn’t need adjusted) (keep between 4-5.5)
Pour into desired container.
I poured mine into 2 oz spray bottles.

How to use; Spray conditioner directly into damp hair and massage in with hands. Or spray product directly into hands and apply to hair that way.

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