How to Formulate w/ Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP)

taralee
7 hours ago
3 min read

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP)

Overall I found this Vitamin C Derivative to be pretty easy to formulate with. It dissolved super easily into the water, it didn’t recrystallize. The only annoying part about this ingredient is that is has to be between 5.5 - 6 to be stable, which isn’t a very large window. That’s my biggest issue with it. According to the manufacture of this ingredient "has both anti-wrinkle and whitening effects.” They did an in-vivo test, which is a test done on real people. They included 33 people and found that just 0.5% AAP “significantly” reduced hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks by 29-33%. They also claim to have measured a “dramatic” decrease in the total number of wrinkles, about 23% after 8 weeks.

We can’t take these claims too seriously as this is an in-vivo study done by the manufacture. Studies are best done by a 3rd party who has no financial gain of the ingredient. So overall more research needs done with this ingredients. I didn’t even see this derivative mentioned in Chemist Confessions Blog.

Formulating w/ AAP

White to pale yellow powder
Water Soluble
Light & Oxygen Stable
Addition of chelating agent can boost protection against oxidation
Natural pH of ingredient 1.7 - 3.7
Final products pH needs between 5.5 - 6
Heat sensitive, add below 40°C (104°F)
Typical Usage Rate: 0.1% - 1%
Not considered Natural or Ecocert

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Serum Formula

Phase A

Phase B

0.5% Sepimax Zen / Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Directions;

In a heat safe container combine all ingredients in phase A and mix until all powder has dissolved.
Sprinkle Phase B onto of phase A. Do not mix. Cover with Plastic Wrap and let sit overnight. It might only take 3-8 hours for the powder to hydrate into a gel, but I always let mine sit overnight.
The next day you can remove the plastic wrap and mix. If you want the serum to be thicker then increase the percent of Sepimax Zen.
Check pH and adjust to 5.5 - 6 if needed. If you need to lower the pH, combine equal parts citric acid and equal parts distilled water to lower the pH. Here is a link to my video all about how to raise and lower the pH level. If the pH is too low you can use Triethanolamine to raise the pH. As you can see I have added 0.5% Triethanolamine to the formula to account for the pH adjusting, so hopefully you don’t need to adjust yours at the end. If the pH of yours is off, you can adjust the amount of Triethanolamine used in the formula to adjust the pH. Using more Triethanolamine will raise the pH and less Triethanolamine will lower the pH.
Let sit overnight and check pH again the next day to make sure it didn’t drift.
Pour into desired bottle. I used this bottle to store my serum in.

How to use Serum;

Massage on to clean dry skin, let dry and follow with your moisturizer. Use AM & PM for best results.

Final thoughts:

I did enjoy formulating with AAP, but since there isn’t much research done on it and it isn’t very popular, I don’t like it too much. It seems there are better choices, but it is easy to formulate with and maybe it will grow in popularity.

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