Formula
Phase A
Phase B
Phase C
5% Distilled Water
1% Niacinamide PC (works in a lower pH)
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.2% Vitamin E
100 gram Recipe
Phase A
Phase B
Phase C
5 g Distilled Water
1 g Niacinamide PC (works in a lower pH)
2 g Carrot Extract
2 g Licorice Extract
0.5 g Liquid Germall Plus
0.2 g Vitamin E
Directions;
In a sanitized heat proof container, combine all ingredients in phase A and mix. Allantoin will not dissolve until we heat it up.
In another sanitized heat proof container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.
Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.
Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
Since we are using Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) in phase B you need to make sure the phase B gets up to 80°C (167°F) and is held at that temperature for 5 minutes to help dissolve the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD). It should be completely dissolved and the phase B should be clear. Also. Mix phase A to help dissolve the Allantoin
While phase A & B are heating we can work on phase C
Combine the distilled water and powdered ingredients together first in phase C and mix until dissolved before adding in everything else. Set aside until later.
Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.
Remove phase B from heat
Pour phase A into phase B and mix with an Immersion Blender for 10 minutes. You will notice the emulsion will start to chunk up. Just keep mixing. After mixing for 7 minutes you will noticed the chunks do go away. So this is why you do need to mix for about 10 minutes with an immersion blender when using Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD).
Let lotion cool. Once the lotion has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase C ingredients and mix.
Check and adjust pH if needed and let sit over night.
I jared mine up the next day using these Pink Jars
Benefits of Each Ingredient;
Glycerin - Humectant. Hydrates the skin
Allantoin - has moisturizing, soothing, anti-irritating properties and stimulates healthy, normal tissue formation
Emulsifying Wax NF - all in one emulsifier. Blends the oil and water together and thickens into a cream/lotion.
Cetyl Alcohol - is a co emulsifier that helps stabilize emulsions, a thickener, opacifier, emollient, occlusive, and hardener. It comes in white pellets or flakes. Read all about it here
Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) - According to LotionCrafter.com Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) “is a diesterified derivative of Kojic Acid. It is considered to be superior to Kojic Acid in its whitening ability and is more stable than Kojic Acid in cosmetic formulations.”
isopropyl myristate (IPM) - is a non greasy non oily emollient ester. It moisturizes the skin, but is specifically being used to help keep the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) dissolved. It’s recommended to use isopropyl myristate (IPM) or Isopropyl Palmitate.
Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - non-greasy and light weight. It comes in the form of an oily liquid and mainly works as an emollient, dispersing agent and solvent. It’s an emollient ester and similar to plant oils since it has an oily texture, but it is much more light weight and far less greasy. It has a dry, silky oily, feel that is almost powdery because it is still present on the skin but not greasy.
Papaya Oil - high in vitamins A, C, & E. helps firm skin remove blemishes and even skin tone.
N - Acetyl Glucosamine, NAG - Skin Brightener - (read about here) This ingredient doesn't change the pH, it isn't pH sensitive, it dissolves and mixes into water easily, so it makes it perfect for beginners. Said to help moisturize the skin, reduce TEWL, increase HA production in skin, repairs sun damage, brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone and more.
Niacinamide PC (works in a lower pH) - Vitamin B3 - Can help improve the overall appearance of skin. Helps with dull skin, enlarged pores, dark spots, fine lines etc. Great ingredient for all skin types and daily use. Commonly used in brightening products as well. This (low pH) Niacinamide is active in a pH level below 6 unlike most Niacinamide.
Carrot Extract - high is phytosterols and essential fatty acids and is great for rejuvenating skincare products.
Licorice Extract - skin brightener
Liquid Germall Plus - water soluble broad spectrum preservative. Easiest preservative to use.
Vitamin E - antioxidant
Substitutes;
Allantoin - no sub, but you can use water instead or add in a chamomile extract in phase C
Emulsifying Wax NF - any other waxy emulsifier of choice. Emulsifying wax NF, Ecomulse / Ritamulse SCG, Olivem 1000 or Montanov 68 MB
isopropyl myristate (IPM) - Isopropyl Palmitate.
Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - any oil or emollient ester of choice.
Papaya Oil - any oil of choice
Niacinamide PC (works in a lower pH) - Can use normal Niacinamide, just make sure to adjust pH to around 5.5 - 6.5
Carrot Extract - any extract of choice. (this is water soluble)
Licorice Extract - any extract of choice. (this is water soluble)
Liquid Germall Plus - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative of choice. e.g. Euxyl PE 9010 Opiphen Plus
Vitamin E - you can leave out but an antioxidant is recommended
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