Hair Conditioners are a type of Emulsion. This means you need to blend oil and water together using an emulsifier. But what separates a Hair Conditioner Emulsion from a Lotion Emulsion is the use of a Cationic Surfactant as your Emulsifier.
There is soooooo much to discus when it comes to creating an emulsion, so good thing I have already created a series on this topic. Which makes my job here more than half way done.
So please, if you don’t know how to make an emulsion please go watch my entire emulsions series. You can find it here on patreon, or on YouTube. Here is a direct link to the entire emulsion series.
So again, please if you are a beginner watch my emulsion series. Better yet, if you are a beginner, watch the entire formulating for beginners series. I truly believe anyone can formulate after watching that series.
I’m going to continue on this post as if you know how to make an emulsion, so this is your last chance.
Alright lets get into it.
Introduction to Hair Conditioners
Since Hair Conditioners are just another type of emulsion we already know a good bit about them.
We need a water phase, and oil phase that includes an emulsifier, co emulsifier, and some oil. Then a cool down phase that includes a preservative and any heat sensitive ingredients.
A lot of the same ingredients we use in skin care can be used in hair care. For example we can add humectants like glycerin, propandiol, and propylene glycol to the water phase. We can even add in things like Allantoin, DL Panthenol, Botanical Extract ETC. Obviously make sure if they are heat sensitive you add them during the cool down phase.
Heated Water Phase
In a conditioner, for the heated water phase I always add in a humectant. I normally use Glycerin or Propanediol, but I recommend trying different ones to figure out which one your hair likes more. Hair can be so picky. Let me know if your hair has a preference. You could also add in any “specialty” ingredients (specialty is not a technical term, it’s just what I call the other ingredients that aren’t part of the base of the product) but what I mean is something like allantoin to help soothe the scalp. That could also be something great to add. Might be better for the shampoo though, since that touches the scalp more, but you get the point.
Heated Oil Phase
As for the heated oil phase, you need to figure out what Cationic Emulsifier you want to use. There are limited options for us home crafters. So lets go over a few Cationic Emulsifiers that I have experience working with.
INCI; Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol
Usage Rate; 1-10% up to 25%
Optimal pH; 3.0-6.0
Melting Point - 60°C - 90°C (140°F - 194°F)
Appearance - White pastille form - Fishy Smell - does not come through the final product
Vegan - Yes
Ecocert / Natural - No
This is personally my favorite Cationic Emulsifiers to use for my hair conditioners. This stuff gets the job done. It detangles beautifully, it creates gorgeous stable emulsions, and it can be used at a bunch of different percentages to make different types of conditioners. Use a small amount for a spray leave in conditioner, use a lot to make a deep conditioner, or just use the right amount for a daily conditioner. I seriously can’t say enough about how much I love this ingredients. I actually recently made a whole dedicated video on this ingredients. So go watch that to learn more.
In my personal opinion, if you are a beginner use this cationic emulsifier. I am curious to know, have you tried this on your hair and not liked it? I want to know what hair types don’t like BTMS 50.
INCI; Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Usage Rate; 1-10% up to 25%
Optimal pH; 3.0-6.0
Melting Point - 60°C - 90°C (140°F - 194°F)
Appearance - White pastille form - Fishy Smell - does not come through the final product
Vegan - Yes
Ecocert / Natural - No
This one is super similar to BTMS 50. The difference between the two is that, it looks like they have different co emulsifiers and BTMS 50 has Butylene Glycol while BTMS 25 does not have any.
BTMS 50 also contains 50% Behentrimonium methosulfate while BTMS 25 I can only assume has 25% since it’s called BTMS 25. I’ve actually never used BTMS 25 even though I have it. So maybe I should do an experiment comparing the two since it’s been on my to do list forever!
I also can only assume that BTMS 50 has more conditioning benefits since it has more Behentrimonium methosulfate. So if you find yourself using conditioners that are too heavy and weigh your hair down or cause build up, you might be someone who prefers BTMS 25 instead. I’ve been bleaching my hair for 15 years, so obviously my hair would prefer BTMS 50, but that isn’t the case for everyone. Let me know which one your hair prefers.
I won’t be saying anything else about the difference between the two until I get my own personal opinion. So look out for the video of my comparing the two.
Edit; Well actually as I am making this post, I realized I have formulated with BTMS 25 before. In this post here I am using an ingredient called CreamMaker CAT. At the time I didn’t notice, but it has the same INCI name as BTMS 25. This is all just proof to me that it has been way too long since I worked with any cationic emulsifier besides BTMS 50 and I need to do some updated experiments. So look forward to that future post.
INCI; Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Usage Rate; 1-10% up to 25%
Optimal pH; 4.0-4.5
Melting Point - 79–85°C (174–178°F)
Appearance - White to off-white pastilles
Vegan - Yes
Ecocert / Natural - Yes
Speaking of comparing cationic emulsifiers. I actually have an older video/blog post that is a patreon exclusive where I compare Varisoft EQ 65 to BTMS 50. So if you want to check that out, here is a direct link. Keep in mind, this is an older video, I should do an updated version.
Varisoft EQ 65 is, what I like to describe as - because I seen others describe it this way - the natural / green alternative to BTMS 50.
Aka Jeesperse ICE-T CPCS Conditioning Cold Process Emulsifier
INCI; Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium 37
Usage Rate; 3-10%
Optimal pH; I couldn’t find anything specific on this. I imagine as long as you have it within a hair safe pH 4.5 - 5.5 you will be good.
Melting Point - does not need melted.
Appearance - Off-white powder
Vegan - Yes
Ecocert / Natural - No
I remember when I bought this ingredient, I wanted to like it so bad. I remember even making a video with this ingredient. Click here to watch. I didn’t have anything negative to say about the ingredient because I loved the idea of it way to much!
This is a cold process emulsifier. Which means you do not need to heat it to use it. It does suggest using warm water, which I remember when I made it, I just used room temperature water, so maybe that is why it turned out bad. - Again, I just need to do another test and comparison of these cationic emulsifiers as a refresher for me. -
But the idea of not needing heat sounded amazing to me. And the end product looked no different and felt no different compared to all my other conditioners. So I thought I loved. It wasn’t until maybe a month later, I realized it made my hair feel so gross. It was so long ago, so I can’t remember exactly how it felt. I just remember my hair not liking it, but maybe, it wasn’t the ingredient. Maybe it was just the over all formula.
With all that said, I’m curious. Have you tried this ingredient? What are your thoughts?
I’m sorry that wasn’t the best introduction to cationic emulsifiers. I’m realizing in this moment I need to try more of them, as I keep repeating. I guess I’m just too obsessed with BTMS 50. What is your favorite cationic emulsifier?
By the way, while researching for this post I came across this quote.
According to Ases Chem - “Behentrimonium Chloride is ideal for those with coarse or curly hair, as it helps to tame frizz and improve manageability. Behentrimonium Methosulfate, on the other hand, is suitable for those with fine or damaged hair, as it's milder and less likely to cause irritation or dryness.” I found this quote here
Behentrimonium Methosulfate is what is in BTMS 50 and I love that. And Behentrimonium Chloride is in ICE Hair Restore and I didn’t like that. So it might be true. Let me know your thoughts based on your hair experience with the two.
Choosing a Co Emulsifier
You technically don’t need a co emulsifier, but you might want one. As I went into detail in my emulsion series, a co emulsifier makes the emulsion more stable. Actually, all of these Cationic Emulsifiers already contain a co emulsifier. So this is why you will be fine without adding in one, but in order to get your desired viscosity, you might want to add one it. Also if you are adding in a high amount of oil you might need one for more stability. Or you might use a preservative like Opiphen Plus that destabilizes emulsions easily. So this is where you will need to do some experimenting to see what works best for you.
I recommend sticking with the fatty alcohols for co emulsifiers in hair conditioners. I think these will offer the best hair feel and conditioning/slip to hair. This is ingredients like Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, & Stearyl Alcohol. I don’t think Stearic Acid would be a good ingredient for hair conditioners as I don’t think it would add enough slip.
Emollients
When it coms to emollients you can add in things likes natural oils, emollient esters, silicones, butters, any oil soluble moisturizing ingredient your hair likes. So have fun with this. I’m not going to talk much about this specifically as there are just so many different oils, butters, and silicones you could use that the list could be never ending. I recommend sticking with a low amount of oil at first to see what your hair can handle. Some hair types won’t like a lot of oil in the oil phase. So start with maybe 5% oil and work your way up or down from there. Obviously if your hair doesn’t do well with silicones leave them out, but also, don’t be scared to experiment with ingredients in your hair. Your hair might end up loving it.
Some oils I personally recommend for a hair conditioner would be, almond oil, coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, & jojoba oil, to name a few. If you want to add in essential oils like rosemary oil or lavender oil, make sure you add those during the cool down phase. Also, only use them at 1-2%.
Other Cationic Ingredients
Another Category of ingredient found in conditioners are just any cationic ingredients in general. Like Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (GuarCat) could be used as a gelling agent/thickener/emulsion stabilizer. I’ve actually never tried it in a hair conditioner, so that could be an interesting experiment to do. You could add in Hydrolyzed proteins, Polyquats, Etc. I actually have a few categories of ingredients I talked about in the shampoos for beginners post and I figured I would just copy and paste those sections here.
Polyquaternium (Polyquats)
Polyquaternium’s offer amazing conditioning benefits that help provide slip to detangle hair and make it easier to comb through.
These are another example of Cationic Surfactants that can be mixed with Anionic Surfactants.
Examples of Polyquats:
DL Panthenol
Also known as Vitamin B5. DL Panthenol is an extremely common ingredient you will find in hair care products. DL panthenol is a humectant that can help hydrate, increase shine, help smooth fizz, help hair be more elastic, more manageable and over all healthier. I definitely recommend adding this into your conditioners.
Keratin
Keratin is an extremely common ingredient to find in hair care. This is because keratin is the main protein that makes up your hair skin and nails. Keratin is not vegan, but you can find vegan alternatives to keratin. Keratin can help strengthen hair, protect hair, and enhance elasticity.
Hydrolyzed Proteins
There is a lot I could say about hydrolyzed proteins and this is because there are so many different kinds.
Hydrolyzed proteins are an example of another cationic surfactant that is able to be used with anionic surfactants. I have listed examples of some down below. You can click on them and it will take you to the website that sells them so you can learn more about each individual hydrolyzed protein.
Examples of Hydrolyzed Proteins
So that is it from the copy and paste section I took from my shampoo blog. I hope you guys enjoyed this introduction to Hair Conditioners. So lets go ahead and formulate a basic Hair Conditioner.
Rosemary Hair Conditioner w/ Rice Protein & Keratin Formula
Phase A
72.8% Distilled Water
5% Glycerin
phase B
5% BTMS 50.
3% Almond Oil
phase C
5% Distilled Water
2% DL Panthenol
2% Keratin
2% Rice Protein
0.2% Vitamin E
0.5% Rosemary Oil
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
Rosemary Hair Conditioner w/ Rice Protein & Keratin
700 gram Batch
Phase A
509.6 g Distilled Water
35 g Glycerin
phase B
35 g BTMS 50.
14 g Cetearyl Alcohol
21 g Almond Oil
phase C
35 g Distilled Water
14 g DL Panthenol
14 g Keratin
14 g Rice Protein
3.5 g Vitamin E
3.5 g Rosemary Oil
3.5 g Liquid Germall Plus
Directions;
In a sanitized heat safe container, combine all ingredients in phase A.
In another sanitized heat safe container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.
Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.
Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
Let both phase A & B heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B.
While phase A & B are heating we can work on phase C
Combine the distilled water and DL Panthenol first and mix until dissolved before adding in everything else. Set aside until later.
Once phase A & B are heated to 70°C / 158°F and everything is melted. Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.
Remove phase B from heat
Pour phase A into phase B and mix with an Immersion Blender
Come back and mix periodically as the conditioner cools, but don’t mix again once it has started to thicken.
Once the conditioner has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase C ingredients and mix.
Check and adjust pH if needed (mine didn’t need adjusted) (keep between 4-5.5)
Pour into desired container.
I poured my conditioner into a piping bag that way it was much easier to squeeze into these 13.5 oz squeeze bottles.
Benefits/Purpose of each Ingredient
Distilled Water - Diluent
Glycerin - humectant (hydrates the skin)
BTMS 50. - Cationic Surfactant that Emulsifies and thickens the hair conditioner, but is also the main ingredient that is conditioning your hair.
Cetearyl Alcohol - Emollient and thickener. Used to thicken the hair conditioner, add moisture and slip to hair and acts as a co emulsifier to help stabilize the emulsion/
Almond Oil - Emollient
DL Panthenol - Also known as Vitamin B5. DL Panthenol is an extremely common ingredient you will find in shampoos. DL panthenol is a humectant that can help hydrate, increase shine, help smooth fizz, help hair be more elastic, more manageable and over all healthier.
Keratin - Keratin is an extremely common ingredient to find in hair care products. This is because keratin is the main protein that makes up your hair skin and nails. Keratin is not vegan, but you can find vegan alternatives to keratin. Keratin can help strengthen hair, protect hair, and enhance elasticity.
Rice Protein - said to help increase’s moisture retention
Vitamin E - antioxidant
Rosemary Oil - Said to help with hair growth, but also I like the scent.
Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
Glycerin - propanedial 1,3, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol
BTMS 50 - BTMS 25 but may need to change the percentages around.
Almond Oil - Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, or another oil of choice. I recommend a lighter oil.
DL Panthenol - no sub, but you can leave out.
Keratin - Any hydrolyzed protein of choice or botanical extract or leave out and use distilled water here.
Rice Protein - Any hydrolyzed protein of choice or botanical extract or leave out and use distilled water here.
Vitamin E - no sub but you can leave out
Rosemary Oil - any fragrance or essential oil of choice.
Liquid Germall Plus - euxyl PE 9010, geogard ECT, Euxyl K 903, Tristate Eco Optiphen, Opiphen Plus
vitamin E - you can leave it out
I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
I am an affiliate with https://aromantic.co.uk/ meaning I earn money when you click on their links and purchase their items.
I am an affiliate with Makesy.com and some links may be affiliate links.
TIME STAMPS FOR VIDEO;
00:00 - Intro
00:23 - Introduction to Hair Conditioners
01:46 - Heated Water Phase 02:37 - Heated Oil Phase
03:03 - BTMS 50 03:59 - BTMS 25 05:22 - Varisoft EQ 65
05:59 - ICE Hair Restore
07:52 - Choosing a Co Emulsifier
09:16 - Emollients
10:36 - GuarCat
11:01 - Hydrolyzed Proteins, Polyquats, Keratin, and DL Panthenol
12:00 - Fragrance
12:48 - Making a Hair Conditioner
Comments