The dictionary definition of moisturizer is - a lotion or cream used to prevent dryness in the skin.
We've already talked about the importance of emulsifiers for lotions, creams, & moisturizers, but now, lets talk about the other extremely important ingredients.
Humectants, Emollients, & Occlusives.
Without these three ingredients you won't be hydrating, moisturizing, or preventing trans epidermal water loss.
I think often times the words hydrating and moisturizing are used interchangeably and I too am somebody who tends to do that, but the main difference between hydrating your skin and moisturizing your skin is that hydration comes from water based ingredients (humectants) and moisturizing typically comes from oil soluble ingredients(emollients).
Then there are Occlusives, which help lock in all of that hydration and moisture, which again, are typically oil soluble ingredients.
So all three of these ingredients, while may seem similar, are all very different and are all essential to creating the perfect moisturizer.
Now we are starting to see why the blending of water based ingredients and oil based ingredients for moisturizers are so important.
Humectants
Humectants are hygroscopic, which mean they absorb water. Humectants absorb water from either the environment or even from within the skin either from the dermis or epidermis. Which is why, for some, using only a humectant in a product could feel drying. For example, those who use a hyaluronic acid serum have better results with using it in a humid climate rather than a dry climate. This may also be why you have heard to apply hyaluronic acid serums on damp skin rather than dry skin.
So using only a humectant can result in trans epidermal water loss if not paired with an occlusive.
Trans epidermal water loss is commonly abbreviated as TEWL and is a measurement of the amount of water that is lost from the skin.
Humectants are typically water soluble and can be heat sensitive or not heat sensitive. If they are not heat sensitive, you will add them to the heated water phase of your emulsion. And if they are heat sensitive, you will add them to the cool down phase of your emulsion.
Examples of some humectants;
Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol 1,3, Propylene Glycol, Urea, Sorbitol, Alpha Hydroxy Acids to name a few.
Emollients
Emollients help soothe and soften skin. They essentially fill in gaps in the skin. Think about when your skin feels really dry, rough, or flaky. As soon as you add something like olive oil on your skin, your skin will immediately feel and look better. This is because emollients fill in those gaps in-between your skin cells.
But of course this will only last temporarily and this is why the combination of humectants, emollients and occlusives is so important.
Examples of Emollients;
Plant oils like jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, hempseed oil, sunflower oil, etc. Emollient esters like caprylic capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate (IPM), Coco Caprylate/Caprate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, squalane, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, and many other butters, the list could go on and on.
Occlusives
Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier (water hating) over the skin and helps block trans epidermal water loss. Occlusives often get a bad rep. Since they do create a layer over the skin, some interpret this to be a negative thing, saying it can cause acne or other skin issues, but in fact, its just the opposite. Occlusives help protect the skin from external stressors and are essential to help lock all of that hydration and moisture in the skin.
Examples of Occlusives;
Petroleum Jelly, Mineral Oil, lecithin, Lanolin, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, caprylic capric triglyceride, squalane, & waxes like Bees Wax, Candelilla Wax, Sunflower Wax, etc. again the list can go on and on.
As you can see some listed here are also considered emollients. So ingredients can be more than just one thing.
So as you can see there is so much importance to using humectants, emollients, & occlusives in your moisturizers. And they are key to making the perfect moisturizer.
Sources;
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