Formula
Phase A
0.1% Xanthan Gum Soft
7% Glycerin
53.9% Distilled Water
Phase B
4% Lotionpro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)
1% Dimethicone
8% Shea Butter
Phase C
5% Distilled Water
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
1% Fragrance Oil - Peach & Tea
0.5% Vitamin E
800 gram Recipe
Phase A
0.8 g Xanthan Gum Soft
56 g Glycerin
471.2 g Distilled Water
Phase B
32 g Lotionpro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)
24 g Cetyl Alcohol
72 g Sunflower Oil
8 g Dimethicone
16 g Lemon Peel Oil FSS
64 g Shea Butter
Phase C
40 g Distilled Water
24 g Alpaflor Gigawhite
8 g Fragrance Oil - Peach & Tea
4 g Vitamin E
Directions;
Mix together in a heat safe container, the Glycerin and Xanthan Gum Soft before adding in the distilled water and mixing. Your water should be slightly thickened.
Tare scale and write down how much phase A weighs.
Combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe container.
Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place it over your stove top on medium heat. (this is called a water bath)
Cover both phase A and phase B with foil and place in the water bath.
Heat until phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature. 70°C/158°F
Once phase B has melted, remove phase A from heat and place on scale and replace any water that evaporated. Normally it's about 1 gram or less.
Remove phase B from heat and then pour phase A into phase B
Once phase A/B has cooled to 104°F / 40°C add in the phase C ingredients and mix.
Check and adjust pH to between 4.5 - 5.5 (only add 1 drop at a time)
Cover and let sit overnight
The next day package your butter. (I divided mine up into 3 sections, colored one Orange, one Yellow and kept one white and poured those 3 colors into 1 piping bag and piped the butter into my 4 oz Glass Jars
Benefits of Each Ingredient;
Xanthan Gum Soft - (Natural Polymer) - Thickener and Emulsion stabilizer.
Glycerin - (Humectant) - Hydrates the skin
Lotionpro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) - All in one Emulsifier - Creates thinner emulsions compared to other emulsifiers. Perfect for making body milks and light weight body butters.
Cetyl Alcohol - Co Emulsifier - Helps stabilize and thicken the emulsion. Helps moisturize the skin & helps prevent TEWL
Sunflower Oil - Plant Oil - Moisturizes the skin.
Dimethicone - Silicone - Provides long lasting skin smoothness. Increases slip and glide of emulsions and moisturizes the skin. Helps reduce soaping.
Lemon Peel Oil FSS - Plant Oil - Said to help enhance, the glow, clarity, and overall appearance of skin. It can help brighten and stimulate new skin growth.
Shea Butter - Plant Butter - Emollient that moisturizes the skin. One of the much softer butters.
N - Acetyl Glucosamine, NAG - Skin Brightener - (read about here) This ingredient doesn't change the pH, it isn't pH sensitive, it dissolves and mixes into water easily, so it makes it perfect for beginners and for a mask like this. Said to moisturize the skin, reduce TEWL, increase HA production in skin, repairs sun damage, brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone and more.
Niacinamide PC (low pH) - Vitamin B3 - Can help improve the overall appearance of skin. Helps with dull skin, enlarged pores, dark spots, fine lines etc. Great ingredient for all skin types and daily use. Commonly used in brightening products as well. This (low pH) Niacinamide is active in a pH level below 6 unlike most Niacinamide.
Distilled Water - Diluent - Helps dissolve the powdered ingredients in the cool down phase.
Alpaflor Gigawhite - Skin Brightener - Ecocert approved skin lightener. Said to brighten and even skin tone as well as reduce the color intensity of age spots. This is a blend of botanical extracts. INCI; Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract
Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative
Fragrance Oil - Peach & Tea from morouge.ca
Vitamin E - Antioxidant - helps keep oils from going rancid.
Substitutes;
Xanthan Gum Soft - (Natural Polymer) - Siligel, Sepimax Zen, Sepinov EMT 10, (add the Sepimax Zen & Sepinov EMT 10 in the oil phase instead.
Glycerin - (Humectant) - Propanediol or Propylene Glycol
Lotionpro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) - All in one Emulsifier - you can try a different emulsifier like emulsifying wax NF or ritamulse SCG, but the final viscosity and feel of the product will be way thicker.
Cetyl Alcohol - Co Emulsifier - Cetearyl Alcohol
Sunflower Oil - Plant Oil - Any plant oil
Dimethicone - Silicone - Cyclomethicone or other silicone or silicone alternative like Natrasil or Neossance Hemisqualane
Lemon Peel Oil FSS - Plant Oil - Any other plant oil of choice.
Shea Butter - Plant Butter - Any Butter of choice.
N - Acetyl Glucosamine, NAG - Skin Brightener - Alpha Arbutin
Niacinamide PC (low pH) - Vitamin B3 - Can use normal Niacinamide, just make sure to adjust pH to around 5.5 - 6.5
Distilled Water - Diluent - Hydrosol
Alpaflor Gigawhite - Skin Brightener - Licorice Extract
Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative
Fragrance Oil - Any fragrance oil or essential oil
Vitamin E - Antioxidant - Green Tea Extract
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