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Brightening Emulsified Body Butter - Exclusive Jan. 2024



Formula

Phase A


Phase B


Phase C



800 gram Recipe

Phase A


Phase B


Phase C






Directions;

  • Mix together in a heat safe container, the Glycerin and Xanthan Gum Soft before adding in the distilled water and mixing. Your water should be slightly thickened.

  • Tare scale and write down how much phase A weighs.

  • Combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe container.

  • Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place it over your stove top on medium heat. (this is called a water bath)

  • Cover both phase A and phase B with foil and place in the water bath.

  • Heat until phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature. 70°C/158°F

  • Once phase B has melted, remove phase A from heat and place on scale and replace any water that evaporated. Normally it's about 1 gram or less.

  • Remove phase B from heat and then pour phase A into phase B


  • Mix with immersion blender/stick blender. Let Cool

  • In a beaker combine all the ingredients in phase C besides the Vitamin E and Fragrance oil and mix until all the powdered ingredients have dissolved. Once all the powdered ingredients have dissolved add in the Vitamin E and Fragrance Oil. 

  • Once phase A/B has cooled to 104°F / 40°C add in the phase C ingredients and mix.

  • Check and adjust pH to between 4.5 - 5.5 (only add 1 drop at a time)

  • Cover and let sit overnight

  • The next day package your butter. (I divided mine up into 3 sections, colored one Orange, one Yellow  and kept one white and poured those 3 colors into 1 piping bag and piped the butter into my 4 oz Glass Jars



Benefits of Each Ingredient;


Xanthan Gum Soft - (Natural Polymer) - Thickener and Emulsion stabilizer.


Glycerin - (Humectant) - Hydrates the skin


Lotionpro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) - All in one Emulsifier - Creates thinner emulsions compared to other emulsifiers. Perfect for making body milks and light weight body butters. 


Cetyl Alcohol - Co Emulsifier - Helps stabilize and thicken the emulsion. Helps moisturize the skin & helps prevent TEWL


Sunflower Oil - Plant Oil - Moisturizes the skin.


Dimethicone - Silicone - Provides long lasting skin smoothness. Increases slip and glide of emulsions and moisturizes the skin. Helps reduce soaping.


Lemon Peel Oil FSS - Plant Oil - Said to help enhance, the glow, clarity, and overall appearance of skin. It can help brighten and stimulate new skin growth.


Shea Butter - Plant Butter - Emollient that moisturizes the skin. One of the much softer butters.


N - Acetyl Glucosamine, NAG - Skin Brightener - (read about here) This ingredient doesn't change the pH, it isn't pH sensitive, it dissolves and mixes into water easily, so it makes it perfect for beginners and for a mask like this. Said to moisturize the skin, reduce TEWL, increase HA production in skin, repairs sun damage, brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone and more. 


Niacinamide PC (low pH) - Vitamin B3 - Can help improve the overall appearance of skin. Helps with dull skin, enlarged pores, dark spots, fine lines etc. Great ingredient for all skin types and daily use. Commonly used in brightening products as well. This (low pH) Niacinamide is active in a pH level below 6 unlike most Niacinamide.


Distilled Water - Diluent - Helps dissolve the powdered ingredients in the cool down phase.


Alpaflor Gigawhite - Skin Brightener - Ecocert approved skin lightener. Said to brighten and even skin tone as well as reduce the color intensity of age spots. This is a blend of botanical extracts. INCI; Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract


Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative


Fragrance Oil - Peach & Tea from morouge.ca


Vitamin E - Antioxidant - helps keep oils from going rancid. 



Substitutes;


Xanthan Gum Soft - (Natural Polymer) - Siligel, Sepimax Zen, Sepinov EMT 10, (add the Sepimax Zen & Sepinov EMT 10 in the oil phase instead.



Lotionpro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) - All in one Emulsifier - you can try a different emulsifier like emulsifying wax NF or ritamulse SCG, but the final viscosity and feel of the product will be way thicker. 


Cetyl Alcohol - Co Emulsifier - Cetearyl Alcohol


Sunflower Oil - Plant Oil - Any plant oil


Dimethicone - Silicone - Cyclomethicone or other silicone or silicone alternative like Natrasil or Neossance Hemisqualane


Lemon Peel Oil FSS - Plant Oil - Any other plant oil of choice.


Shea Butter - Plant Butter - Any Butter of choice.



Niacinamide PC (low pH) - Vitamin B3 - Can use normal Niacinamide, just make sure to adjust pH to around 5.5 - 6.5


Distilled Water - Diluent - Hydrosol


Alpaflor Gigawhite - Skin Brightener - Licorice Extract


Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative 


Fragrance Oil - Any fragrance oil or essential oil


Vitamin E - Antioxidant - Green Tea Extract



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