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Writer's picturetaralee
Jun 187 min read

Brightening Under Eye Cream W/ Cucumber & Caffeine (Exclusive 6/24)

Formula

Phase A


Phase B


Phase C



200 gram Recipe

Phase A

Phase B


Phase C



Directions;

  • In a separate sanitized container combine everything else in phase A and mix. Make sure all powder is dissolved.

  • Pour the slurry into phase A and mix. 

  • Tare scale and place phase A on scale. Take note of how much phase A weighs. We will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate. So we will need to replace that after heating.

  • In another separate sanitized container combine everything in phase B. 

  • Cover both phase A & B with foil and place in a water bath. (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)

  • Let both phase A & B heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B.

  • Once they have reached their desired temperature first remove phase A from heat and weight it, replacing any water that evaporated. Then remove phase B from heat.

  • Pour phase A into phase B then immediately mix with an Immersion Blender. Don’t mix with immersion blender again if using Montanov 68 MB as it can mess up the lamellar structure. (Read below to learn more). You can hand mix though.

  • In a separate sanitized container combine everything else in phase C besides the Vitamin E & Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (those are oil soluble) and mix until all powders have dissolved. 

  • Once your eye cream returns to 40°C / 104°F you can pour phase C into your eye cream and hand mix. This is also the time you can add in the Vitamin E & Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Mix well. 

  • Let return to room temperature and take pH. Make sure the pH is between 4.5 - 5.5. The natural pH of this eye cream was 5.35, so no pH adjusting is needed. 

  • Let eye cream sit over night before pouring into containers.

  • I poured my eye cream into a pipping bag and pipped them into the squeeze lip gloss tubes. 



How to use; On freshly cleansed skin apply after your serum, but before moisturizer. Gently squeeze a small dot of eye cream under eye and gently swipe left to right. Follow by gently tapping with ring finger into skin until eye cream is fully absorbed



Benefits of Each Ingredient;

Glycerin - Humectant. Hydrates the skin. Also helps prevent the Xanthan Gum Soft from clumping. 

Xanthan Gum Soft - Helps stabilize emulsions by thickening the water phase into a gel, making it harder for the oil to separate out. Watch this video to learn more about emulsion stability. 


Aloe Vera Powder 100x - soothing, hydrating, and calming to the skin. This is a concentrated powder of aloe vera. This is much more shelf stable compared to aloe vera liquid and is much cheaper to ship. 


Ceramide Complex - restores the protective barrier function of the skin and offers enhanced delivery and exchange of skin lipids.  Ceramide Complex is especially suitable for dry skin, aging skin and sensitive skin.


Montanov 68 MB (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) - Considered a Natural Emulsifier and Is typically described as feeling lighter on the skin compared to emulsifiers like emulsifying wax. This is a Liquid Crystal Emulsifier. According to LotionCrafter: “ Liquid crystal emulsifiers create a lamellar or bilayered structure that mimics the lipid bilayers in our stratum corneum, which may help actives or lipids from our lotions penetrate our skin easier. They also help reduce transepidermal water loss as the lotions hold more water in contact with the skin for a longer period of time.”


Cetyl Alcohol - is a thickener that brings slip and glide to our products. It gives a creamy feeling to the product, and it’s a great emollient.


Castor Oil - is thicker and tackier than a lot of other plant oils. Commonly used in lip products due to its thicker and tackier texture, this oil helps soothe and condition skin. I love adding a bit of a heavier oil into an eye cream.


Rosehip Seed Oil - Trans-retinoic acid is a natural form of vitamin A naturally found in rosehip seed oil. vitamin -A has been found to help treat acne along with signs of aging.  said to help reduce irritation. Overall a wonderful moisturizing oil for all skin types to help achieve more youthful glowing skin. 


Shea Butter - an amazing skin moisturizer that can help soothe the skin and help prevent trans epidermal water loss.


ULMW Hyaluronic Acid - plumps skin, hydrates skin, reduces fine lines & wrinkles, and is naturally found in skin.

Caffeine Extract - caffeine is said to help stimulates blood circulation to reduce puffiness. Is full of antioxidants and can help soothe and brighten skin.


Licorice Extract - brightens skin, soothes skin

Cucumber Extract - soothes skin, moisturizing, has vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium, vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate, pantothenic acid, magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese.

Regu-Age PF (INCI: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Superoxide Dismutase) - said to reduce dark circles and puffiness around the eyes. Strengthen the connective tissue & reduces inflammation and prevents UV damage


Hexapeptide 1 (INCI: Water & Hexapeptide-11) - great for a variety of anti-aging benefits, improves skin hydration, improves skin tone. Saccharomyces cerevisiae is cultured in an amino acid rich environment; following fermentation FSS Hexapeptide 1 is isolated using various filtration techniques. FSS Hexapeptide 1 may be useful for a variety of anti-aging benefits such as increasing skin tone and elasticity and may also improve skin hydration. FSS Hexapeptide 1 may also increase ATP synthesis. Overall cellular efficiency may be increased by improving the cell’s ATP levels. (according to FSS) 


Niacinamide PC (low pH) - This specific niacianmide is from makingcosmetics.com and it doesn’t need to be in a pH of 6. It can be used in products with lower pH levels, Niacinamide is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and helps improve the overall appearance of the skin.


DL Panthenol - aka vitamin B5 is an excellent humectant that hydrates and moisturizes the skin. It can help restore and maintain skins moisture. 


N - Acetyl Glucosamine, NAG Skin Brightener - (read about here) This ingredient doesn't change the pH, it isn't pH sensitive, it dissolves and mixes into water easily, so it makes it perfect for beginners. Said to help moisturize the skin, reduce TEWL, increase HA production in skin, repairs sun damage, brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone and more.


Geogard 221 - Ecocert and Natural preservative active in a pH between 3- 8. Needs to be mixed with a solubilizer like Poly Suga®Mulse D9 (Natual/Ecocert) or Polysorbate 20


Vitamin E - antioxidant. Protects skin agains free radicals 


Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C) - very stable, oil soluble vitamin C ester. Has excellent skin penetration and as a result offers increased cell protection against UV-B. The skin cell viability is increased up to 30% when compared with l-ascorbic acid. Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin. Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots.



Substitutes;

Xanthan Gum Soft - Tara Gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum) Guar Gum other gum of choice or leave out.

Aloe Vera Powder 100x - Aloe Vera liquid, replace the distilled water with this. Or an aloe vera extract and add that in the cool down phase. 


Ceramide Complex - no sub, but you can leave out. This is a very expensive ingredient, so you don’t need it. 


Montanov 68 MB (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) - Emulsifying Wax, Ritamulse SCG / Ecomulse, Olivem 1000 or other all in one waxy emulsifier of choice. 

 


Cetyl Alcohol - Behenyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol or other fatty acid or fatty alcohol of choice. 


Castor Oil - any plant oil of choice. Idk of another oil that is a heavy as this one. Just pick and oil you like. 


Rosehip Seed Oil - any plant oil of choice. 


Shea Butter - any butter of choice or use oil here instead.


ULMW Hyaluronic Acid - any hyaluronic acid should work, but keep in mind that the higher the weight of HA the more it will thicken the product. 

Caffeine Extract - caffeine is said to help stimulates blood circulation to reduce puffiness. Is full of antioxidants and can help soothe and brighten skin.


Cucumber Extract - Chamomile Extract, Calendula Extract or other extract of choice


Regu-Age PF (INCI: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Superoxide Dismutase) -


Hexapeptide 1 (INCI: Water & Hexapeptide-11- any peptide like pea peptide, or collagen prepeptide PF, formulator sample shop carries a lot of different peptides.


Niacinamide PC (low pH) - you can leave out. No sub. You could use regular niacinanide that needs to be in a ph of 6, but make sure you adjust the formula and ph accordingly.


DL Panthenol - you can leave out. No sub



Vitamin E - antioxidant. Protects skin agains free radicals 


Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C) - very stable, oil soluble vitamin C ester. Has excellent skin penetration and as a result offers increased cell protection against UV-B. The skin cell viability is increased up to 30% when compared with l-ascorbic acid. Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin. Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots.



Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C)  - You could use a different vitamin C ingredient like vitamin C liposome from FSS or 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate which is another vitamin C ester from lotion crafter. Or just replace with your favorite extract or distilled water.










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