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This is not an exact replica of the Dove Beauty Bar and I did not use all the same ingredients they use. I also believe I am using a different formulating method than they use. I’ve been comparing this formula to the actual Dove Beauty Bar for months and they are so similar. But of course I like mine more ;) Hope you do too!
All ingredients are considered “Natural” or Ecocert except for the Preservative Liquid Germall Plus. Also fragrance oil may not be considered natural or ecocert depending on the sources or person. You can easily use an essential oil or “natural” fragrance oil in place of it. See substitutions section for preservative substitutes.
Batch size calculator for the recipe is attached at the bottom of page along with the PDF blog you can print.
Formula;
Phase A
4% Stearic Acid
3% Lauric Acid
Phase B
Phase C
18.5% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
Phase D
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
1% Tahitian Vanilla Flavor (used as fragrance)
Directions;
In a sanitized heat safe mixing bowl combine ingredients in phase A.
In a separate sanitized heat safe mixing bowl combine ingredients in phase B.
Place both phase A and B in a water bath to melt. Phase B will take way way way longer to melt, so you can add the phase A to the water bath, once phase B gets closer to being done.
Come back and mix phase B periodically. Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate is in huge chunks, so they take forever to soften and melt into the Cocamidopropyl Betaine, but I promise it does happen eventually.
Once phase B is a thick paste you can remove it from heat, put on your Respirator and add phase C into phase B and mix until all of the SCI powder is incorporated into the paste.
Now you can add phase A into the phase B/C paste and mix.
Let cool to around 40°C/100°F and add in all of the phase D ingredients mixing after each one.
Now you can mold your paste into bars. I used this mold here as it looks just like the Dove Beauty Bars, but you can use a shampoo bar press(2.25 inch) or any other mold of choice. Just press the paste into the molds making sure you cover the whole area of the mold. You can remove them from the mold immediately, but I recommend letting them sit in the mold overnight to harden.
The next day you can remove from the molds and let them sit for a week to harden. They are safe to use immediately, but you want to let them harden so they last longer in the shower.
Natural pH should be between 4-8, no need to adjust pH.
Benefits/Uses of Ingredients;
Stearic Acid - hardener and helps create a creamy and stable lather.
Lauric Acid - will help harden the bar and is said to promote a fluffier lather and supposably cleanses skin really well. They warn to not use too much Laurie acid as it cleanses the skin so well it can dry it out. Source
Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate - anionic surfactant that helps create lather and foam.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - liquid amphoteric surfactant used to help dissolve the powdered/solid surfactants. Also helps create a more stable and gentle lather.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - anionic powder surfactant that helps create lather and foam.
Glyceryl Oleate - is a re-fatting agent and can be found in our hair lipids and skin lipids. It can help improve surfactant systems by subsiding the drying effect that can sometimes occur. Makes surfactant systems more soft, conditioning luxurious, and gentle.
Liquid Germall Plus - preservative.
Substitutes;
These are only suggestions. Further testing needs done if you are using any substitutes. Substituting ingredients may result in the need to change the formulating process or recalculate the formula.
Stearic Acid - any fatty acid or fatty alcohol will work. Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid
Lauric Acid - any fatty acid or fatty alcohol will work. Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid
Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), Bioterge AS 90 Surfactant, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or other powder anionic surfactant of choice.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Coco Betaine, or any other liquid amphoteric surfactant. A liquid anionic surfactant could also work.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Bioterge AS 90 Surfactant, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or other powder anionic surfactant of choice.
Liquid Germall Plus - Euxyl K 903, Euxyl K 900, Tristate Eco, Geogard 221, Geogard ECT aka Preservative Eco, Opiphen Plus or other broad spectrum preservative of choice. (Make sure it is active in your products final pH)
400 Gram Recipe used in video;
Phase A
16 grams Stearic Acid
12 grams Lauric Acid
Phase B
120 grams Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate
160 grams Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Phase C
74 grams Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
Phase D
12 grams Glyceryl Oleate
2 grams Liquid Germall Plus
4 grams Tahitian Vanilla Flavor (used as fragrance)
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