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Ecocert / Natural Vitamin C Face Moisturizer w/ Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - Exclusive 4/25



All ingredients are considered “Natural” or Ecocert. (Check with supplier) 

See substitutions section for substitutes.


Batch size calculator for the recipe is attached at the bottom of page along with the PDF blog you can print.


Formula;


Phase A

59.4% Distilled Water


Phase B

4% Montanov 202 (INCI:Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside)


Phase C

5% Distilled Water

1% Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)

0.5% Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50)


pH Adjusting;

*pH needs to be adjusted to 6.5 - 7 for the Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to be effective. 

I ended up using 1% of my pH buffer to lower the pH between 6.5-7. Add 1% Buffer Solution (50% citric acid dissolved in 50% distilled water) to phase A and remove 1% from the distilled water phase. 



SAP is said to be good for oily skin types with sensitive skin. It doesn’t absorb well in the skin, so use on clean skin and use regularly. Not as potent of an antioxidant compared to ascorbic acid.



Directions;

  • In a sanitized heat proof container, combine all ingredients in phase A and mix. 

  • In another sanitized heat proof container, combine all the ingredients in phase B.

  • Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.

  • Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)

  • Let both phase A & B heat to 85°C / 185°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase B and all powder has dissolved in phase A. 


  • Once phase A & B are heated to 85°C / 185°F.  Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.

  • Remove phase B from heat

  • Montanov 202 specifically recommends to homogenize your ingredients before combining the phases. So I mixed the two phases with my Immersion Blender. Then I poured phase A into phase B and mixed with my Immersion Blender

  • Come back and mix periodically as the lotion cools, but don’t mix again once it has started to thicken. 


  • In another sanitized beaker, combine the Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Licorice Extract and distilled water and mix until dissolved. Pour into lotion once it has cooled to 40°C / 104°F. Then add in the rest of the ingredients in phase C and mix. (Do not speed up cooling by using an ice bath or by putting it in the fridge)

  • Check and adjust pH to between 6.5 - 7. The natural pH of mine was ____ and I used a pH buffer of 50% citric acid dissolved in 50% distilled water. Learn how to create a pH buffer solution and lower the pH HERE. 


  • Let sit overnight before packaging and check pH again the next day to make sure it didn’t drift. 

  • Pour moisturizer in desired jar. I like these jars HERE. 




Benefits/Uses of Ingredients;


Distilled Water - Diluent 


Glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin


Propanediol - humectant that hydrates the skin


Sodium Phytate - Chelating agent. Helps stabilize formula. Read more about Chelating Agents HERE


Montanov 202 (INCI:Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside) - Ecocert compliant Cosmos and Nature Approved. all in one emulsifier. Said to have a mattifying effect. Palm free. 


Cetyl Alcohol - is a thickener that brings slip and glide to our products. It gives a creamy feeling to the product, and it’s a great emollient.



Safflower Oil - emollient


Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - Ecocert approved Vitamin C Derivative. So for those trying to stay natural or Ecocert, this is a great choice. It isn’t as potent of an antioxidant as L-Ascorbic Acid, but it is an antioxidant. It offers brightening effects and is actually great of oily skin types. It’s been shown to be great for those with oily sensitive skin. But it doesn’t absorb well into the skin, so use regularly!


Licorice Extract - said to have a gentle brightening and soothing action. Is said to help fade sun damage and hyper-pigmentation safely for all skin tones.


Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) - Ecocert Approved Preservative


Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50) - Antioxidant



Substitutes;

These are only suggestions. Further testing needs done if you are using any substitutes. Substituting ingredients may result in the need to change the formulating process or recalculate the formula.


Distilled Water - aloe vera liquid or a hydrosol of choice. 




Sodium Phytate - I don’t know of other ecocert approved chelating agents. No sub.


Montanov 202 (INCI:Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside) - Montanov 68 MB, Olivem 1000, Ritamulse SCG  if you want to stay Ecocert. Otherwise Emulsifying Wax NF or Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate would work. 


Cetyl Alcohol - Behenyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol or other fatty acid or fatty alcohol of choice. 


Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - any oil of choice or emollient ester


Safflower Oil - any oil of choice




Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) - Euxyl K 903, Geogard 221 or Tristate Eco if you want to stay ecocert. Otherwise Liquid Germall Plus, Optiphen Plus, or Euxyl PE 9010 will work. Make sure the preservative works between 5-7


Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50) - no sub








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