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How to Make a W/O Emulsion - Beginner Friendly (Natural / Ecocert)

The types of emulsions most of us are familiar with are the Oil in Water Emulsions. These are the moisturizer, lotions, hair conditioners, & cream formulas I’ve shared.


I have shared 3 Water in Oil emulsions in the past if you want to check them out.


I also have an entire post talking about W/O emulsions. I recommend reading/watching that video to learn more.


The main differences between W/O emulsions and O/W emulsions is that W/O emulsions use Low HLB Emulsifiers, while W/O emulsions use High HLB Emulsifiers.


W/O emulsions have water as their internal phase and oil as their external phase.


O/W emulsions have oil as their internal phase and oil as their external phase.


W/O emulsions are harder to make & examples of W/O emulsions are US Sunscreens, Makeup Products, Cold Creams, Lotions/Balms/Creams.


The formula I’m sharing today is a Beginner Friendly W/O Lotion. Apply this lotion anywhere on the body. It is heavier and more greasy since it’s a W/O emulsion, keep this in mind when applying.


*This formula is Natural and Ecocert Compliant.





Beginner Friendly W/O Lotion Formula


Phase A

10% Olivem 900 (INCI: Sorbitan Olivate)



Phase B

15% Distilled Water 


Phase C

1% Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)

1% Vitamin E (INCI: Tocopherol) T50

1% Natural Fragrance Oil or Essential Oil 



Directions;

  • In a sanitized heat proof container, combine all ingredients in phase A.  


  • In another sanitized heat safe container, combine all the ingredients in phase B and mix. 



  • Tare scale and weight phase B and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.

  • Cover both phase A & B with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)

  • Let both phase A & B heat to 85°C / 185°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase A.



  • Once phase A & B are heated to 85°C / 185°F.  Remove phase B from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water.

  • Remove phase A from heat

  • Mix phase A with an immersion blender for a few seconds as you slowly pour a little bit of phase B into phase A. Pour only a small amount while mixing and mix for about 10-20 seconds before adding a little bit more of phase B. Continue doing this until all of phase B is incorporated into phase A. 



  • Come back and mix periodically as the emulsion cools. It’s okay to mix with the immersion blender once it thickens. It might look like there are chunks in the emulsion at this time. That’s fine. 

  • Once the emulsion has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase C ingredients and mix in-between each one you add in.



  • You do not need to check or adjust the pH since this is a w/o emulsion and it doesn’t have a pH.

  • Cover with Plastic Wrap and let sit overnight.

  • The next day give your emulsion a bit of a mix or whip it with a Hand Mixer then pour into jars of choice.   





Benefits/Uses of Ingredients;


Distilled Water - is the internal phase of the w/o emulsion. Adding some water into an anhydrous formula can help reduce the oiliness and greasiness. It also allows you to work in water soluble ingredients into an anhydrous formula.


Glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin also can help stabilize water in oil emulsions.


Olivem 900 (INCI: Sorbitan Olivate) - Low HLB emulsifier. This ingredient is what helps keep the water mixed into the oil phase. Learn more about W/O Emulsions and Low HLB Emulsifiers HERE.


Sunflower Wax - thickener


Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - emollient that moisturizes the skin.


Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) - Ecocert Approved Preservative


Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50) - Antioxidant




Substitutes;

These are only suggestions. Further testing needs done if you are using any substitutes. Substituting ingredients may result in the need to change the formulating process or recalculate the formula.


Distilled Water - aloe vera liquid or a hydrosol of choice. 


Glycerin - Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol or other glycol of choice.


Olivem 900 (INCI: Sorbitan Olivate) - try a Low HLB Emulsifier you have on hand. Glyceryl Stearate would work as an alternative


Sunflower Wax - Bees Wax or other wax of choice. May change the viscosity of product.


Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - you want to look for a lighter weight oil. Heavier oils may be harder to keep emulsified. You can try any oil of choice, but if it separates, then try a lighter oil like an emollient ester. There are plenty of natural and Ecocert Emollient esters like; Coco Caprylate/Caprate or Squalane would be good choices to use.  


Euxyl K 900 (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) - Euxyl K 903, Geogard 221 or Tristate Eco if you want to stay ecocert. Otherwise Liquid Germall Plus, Optiphen Plus, or Euxyl PE 9010 will work.


Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols T50) - no sub but you can leave out. 










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