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Kojic & Turmeric Brightening Body Wash Bars - Exclusive 2/25

Writer: taraleetaralee
Feb 275 min read


All ingredients are considered “Natural” or Ecocert except for the Preservative Liquid Germall Plus and  Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine. Honeyquat is REACH compliant and is considered “naturally derived”. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) is also considered natural by people, but may not be Ecocert Compliant. (Check with supplier)

Also fragrance oil may not be considered natural or ecocert depending on the sources or person. You can easily use an essential oil or “natural” fragrance oil in place of it. See substitutions section for substitutes.


Batch size calculator for the recipe is attached at the bottom of page along with the PDF blog you can print.


Formula;


Phase A


Phase B


Phase C




Directions;

  • In a sanitized heat safe beaker, combine all ingredients in phase A. Place on a hot plate and heat to 80°C (167°F) and hold for 5 minutes until the KAD dissolves completely. (In the video I added the Turmeric oil after the Kojic Acid was dissolved, but it didn’t make a difference.) 

  • In another sanitized beaker combine all ingredients in phase B 

Put on a Respirator  and in a sanitized mixing bowl combine the phase C ingredients.

  • Keeping your Respirator on, pour phase A & B into Phase C and mix with a Spatula. Once it’s formed into a paste you can remove your Respirator. 

  • You should now have a thick yellow paste. It might be sticky and stick to your gloves. This is normal. Let it sit for an hour and check back to see if it still sticks to your gloves. If it’s still too sticky, let it sit for another hour. Mine only took an hour before it was dry enough to roll into a ball. It will still stick to your gloves a little bit, but not enough to where it’s hard to work with.

  • Once it’s dry enough that you can mold it and roll into a ball choose your mold. You can use a silicone mold and press the paste into the molds or a shampoo bar press. I used a shampoo bar press(2.25 inch). I think this creates the best results since it does a better job at packing the bars, but if you only have a silicone mold, that works too. 

  • Let them sit in the silicone mold for 24 hours before removing them, then let them sit for a week to harden before using. They are safe to use immediately, but you want them to harder a bit so they last longer. The longer you let them harden the longer they will last in the shower.

  • If you decide to use a shampoo bar press I recommend wrapping the press with parchment paper so the shampoo bar doesn’t stick to the mold. Watch video to see tutorial on how I do this. After you press your bars let them sit for a week before using so they can harden up and last longer in the shower.

  • Final pH for this product needs to be between 3-8 and should naturally be within that pH. No ph adjusting needed.  


Benefits/Uses of Ingredients;

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) - said to help with brightening/lightening dark spots. Is a common treatment for melanoma and age spots. Also is an antioxidant great at fighting off free radicals. Said to help improve skin texture and overall create a more youthful appearance.    


isopropyl myristate (IPM) - is used as a solvent for the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD). The supplier of Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) suggests to dissolve the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) in isopropyl myristate (IPM). isopropyl myristate (IPM) also helps reduce the oiliness and greasiness in products and can increase spreadability in products.  


Turmeric Infused Oil - Great way to add the benefits of turmeric in your product without dealing with the staining turmeric can cause. Turmeric is said to help brighten and soothe the skin. Is also said to that it can help with reducing the appearance of scares and balance sebum production.  


Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine - an amphoteric surfactant similar to Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Watch my video where I compare amphoteric surfactants to see how it differs from other amphoteric surfactant.  


Sodium Lactate Liquid - said to help with hardening the bar and making the unfolding process easier. I haven’t personally noticed much of a difference when I leave this out. But it is also a humectant so it helps hydrate the skin.


Honeyquat - a conditioning agent derived from honey. It is technically a cationic surfactant, but this type of cationic ingredient is okay to use with anionic ingredient. This ingredient can help with conditioning and softening the skin and hair.


Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative 


Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - a powder anionic surfactant that helps product the lather and foam and cleanses the skin


Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - a powder anionic surfactant that helps product the lather and foam and cleanses the skin


Turmeric Powder - added this in for a natural colorant. 



Substitutes;

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) - no substitute 


isopropyl myristate (IPM) - Isopropyl Palmitate


Turmeric Infused Oil - any oil of choice, doesn’t need to be infused with turmeric.  


Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine - Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Coco Betaine, or any other liquid amphoteric surfactant. A liquid anionic surfactant could also work. 




Liquid Germall Plus - Euxyl K 903, Euxyl K 900, Tristate Eco, Geogard 221, Geogard ECT aka Preservative Eco, Opiphen Plus or other broad spectrum preservative of choice. (Make sure it is active in your products final pH)


Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - Bioterge AS 90 Surfactant, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or other powder anionic surfactant of choice.


Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), Bioterge AS 90 Surfactant, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or other powder anionic surfactant of choice.





300 Gram Recipe Used in Video;


Phase A


Phase B

9 grams Honeyquat


Phase C

73.5 grams Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA)

1.5 grams Turmeric Powder



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