Formula
Phase A
0.1% Xanthan Gum Soft
3% Glycerin
4% Propanediol
69.9% Distilled Water
Phase B
Phase C
5% Distilled Water
1% Green Tea Extract (water soluble)
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
200 gram Recipe
Phase A
0.2 g Xanthan Gum Soft
6 g Glycerin
8 g Propanediol
149.8 g Distilled Water
Phase B
4 g Cetearyl Alcohol
2 g Sepimax Zen
1 g Dimethicone
Phase C
10 g Distilled Water
2 g Green Tea Extract (water soluble)
Directions;
Mix together in a heat safe container, the Glycerin and Xanthan Gum Soft before adding in the distilled water and mixing. Your water should be slightly thickened.
Tare scale and write down how much phase A weighs.
Combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe container.
Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place it over your stove top on medium heat. (this is called a water bath)
Cover both phase A and phase B with foil and place in the water bath.
Heat until phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature. 70°C/158°F
Once phase B has melted, remove phase A from heat and place on scale and replace any water that evaporated. Normally it's about 1 gram or less.
Remove phase B from heat and then pour phase A into phase B
Mix with immersion blender/stick blender. Let Cool (Do not mix with immersion blender again after it starts to thicken)
In a beaker combine all the ingredients in phase C and mix until all the powdered ingredients have dissolved.
Once phase A/B has cooled to 104°F / 40°C add in the phase C ingredients and mix.
Check and adjust pH to between 4.5 - 5.5 (only add 1 drop at a time)
Cover and let sit overnight
The next day package your moisturizer. Similar Jar I used
Benefits of Each Ingredient;
Xanthan Gum Soft - (Natural Polymer) - Thickener and Emulsion stabilizer.
Glycerin - (Humectant) - Hydrates the skin
Propanediol - (Humectant) - Hydrates the skin
Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - (Emollient Ester) - Oil free ‘oil’ moisturizes skin and helps prevent TEWL.
Sepimax Zen - (Synthetic Polymer & Emulsifier) - Gels/thickens water and also emulsifies up to 25% oil. This is the key ingredient to make this a gel moisturizer.
Cetearyl Alcohol - (Co Emulsifier) - Helps stabilize and thicken the emulsion. Helps moisturize the skin & helps prevent TEWL
Dimethicone - (Silicone) - Provides long lasting skin smoothness. Increases slip and glide of emulsions and moisturizes the skin. Helps reduce soaping.
Niacinamide PC (low pH) - (Vitamin B3) - Can help improve the overall appearance of skin. Helps with dull skin, enlarged pores, dark spots, fine lines etc. Great ingredient for all skin types and daily use. Commonly used in brightening products as well. This (low pH) Niacinamide is active in a pH level below 6 unlike most Niacinamide.
Distilled Water - (Diluent) - Helps dissolve the powdered ingredients in the cool down phase.
Aloe Vera Extract (water soluble) - soothing, hydrating, and calming to the skin. can even help with acne
Green Tea Extract (water soluble) - (Antioxidant) - powerful antioxidant that protects skin from free radicals and improve the overall appearance of skin
Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative
Substitutes;
Xanthan Gum Soft - (Natural Polymer) - Siligel, Sepimax Zen, Sepinov EMT 10, (add the Sepimax Zen & Sepinov EMT 10 in the oil phase instead.
Glycerin - (Humectant) - Propanediol or Propylene Glycol
Propanediol - (Humectant) - Propylene Glycol or Glycerin
Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - (Emollient Ester) - isopropyl myristate (IPM), Coco Caprylate/Caprate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, squalane
Sepimax Zen - (Synthetic Polymer & Emulsifier) - Sepinov EMT 10
Cetearyl Alcohol - (Co Emulsifier) - Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone - (Silicone) - Cyclomethicone or other silicone or silicone alternative like Natrasil or Neossance Hemisqualane
Niacinamide PC (low pH) - Vitamin B3 - Can use normal Niacinamide, just make sure to adjust pH to around 5.5 - 6.5
Aloe Vera Extract (water soluble) - Any water soluble extract of choice.
Green Tea Extract (water soluble) - Vitamin E or any water soluble extract of choice.
Distilled Water - Diluent - Hydrosol
Liquid Germall Plus - Preservative - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative
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