Watch my first Scalp Scrub Experiment
The inspiration behind this product came from a patron. They were asking me to recreate this scalp scrub they buy, which they described as having a similar texture as the whipped purple shampoo I recently posted. So I decided to take that formula and try to make it into a scrub. Ehhhh it didn't go as planned. This isn't very "whipped". It's kind of a slimy texture. It's definitely from the sugar dissolving in the water and making it slimy because it was fine until I added the sugar. So I will definitely be doing more experiments on scalp scrubs. I'll be sure to share with you my results when I do. But hopefully this failed experiment will give you inspo. Also it looks cute!
Formula
Phase A
2.5% Glycerin
0.5% Xanthan Gum Soft
24.5% Distilled Water
Phase B
15% SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)
3% Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Phase C
2.5% Jojoba Oil
0.5% Glyceryl Oleate
Phase D
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
1% Fragrance Oil
50% sugar
700 gram Recipe
Phase A
17.5 grams Glycerin
3.5 grams Xanthan Gum Soft
171.5 grams Distilled Water
Phase B
105 grams SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)
21 grams Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Phase C
17.5 grams Jojoba Oil
3.5 grams Glyceryl Oleate
Phase D
3.5 grams Liquid Germall Plus
7 grams Fragrance Oil
350 grams sugar
Directions;
Combine all ingredient in phase A starting with the Glycerin and Xanthan Gum Soft. Mix the two together before pouring in the Distilled Water. Mix until you have a thick gel.
In a heat safe container combine the ingredients in phase B and mix. Make sure you are wearing a respirator when working with SCI. This stuff is a very fine powder and you do not want to breathe it in.
The SCI and Cocamidopropyl betaine will be a bit hard to mix together, but try to mix them together as much as possible first. I used a spatula here.
Next you can pour phase A into phase B and gently mix. Again, I used a spatula to mix.
Place phase A/B in a water bath (fill a pan with about an inch of water and place on stove top on medium heat)
Mix phase A/B periodically to help dissolve the SCI. Heating up phase A/B will allow it to soften, making it easier to mix all the ingredients together.
While phase A/B heat we can weigh out phase C.
In a separate container combine both ingredients in phase C and mix.
At this time we still have A/B in the water bath. So while it's still in the water bath pour phase C into phase A/B and mix.
Remove from heat and set to the side to cool.
Once cooled you can add in the phase D ingredients. I like to add in the fragrance and liquid germall plus, then add in the sugar last and mix.
I covered this with plastic wrap and let it sit overnight.
The next day I actually forgot to take the pH, but the last time I made this it came out to 4.62, so it’s probably somewhere around there. (our hairs pH is the same as our skin 4.5 - 5.5)
I transferred it into a piping bag and filled my jars. (see video)
This scalp scrub didn’t turn out the way I expected at all, but I did learn from this experience and that is a reason I decided to share it. People are always messaging me telling me they are having failed experiment after failed experiment, and this is totally normal. We fail so many times with our formulas until we find the perfect one. Sometimes it works out the first time, but most of the time, it doesn’t. Just learn from your mistakes and always take note of everything you do.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
Glycerin - hydrates hair
Xanthan Gum Soft - thickens the water phase which will help stabilize the emulsion and help with thickening the product.
SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) - anionic surfactant (this is the main ingredient that is cleansing the hair and scalp and creating lather and bubbles) This is a powdered surfactant that is extremely mild on the skin and is commonly used in baby products because it's so gentle. It also has a lower pH which makes it easier to work with compared to some other surfactants which have high pH levels that need lowered.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - amphoteric surfactant which is commonly paired with an anionic surfactant in shampoos and body washes. This is a liquid surfactant and it helps with dissolving the SCI. It also helps with cleansing the skin and producing lather and foam.
Jojoba Oil - helps moisturize the hair
Glyceryl Oleate - a re-fatting agent and can be found in our hair lipids and skin lipids. It can help improve surfactant systems (shampoos, body washes, face washes, etc) by making them feel more moisturizing, soft, conditioning, gentle, and overall more luxurious. This ingredient is also a low HLB emulsifier, so if you've been looking for one of those, this is it. It has emulsifying properties for oil in water emulsions and water in oil emulsions.
Liquid Germall Plus - preservative
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) - Sodium Coco Sulfate Powder, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Powder, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSa) Powder I don't know if any of these will work for sure. I've never tried any of these in place of the SCI. You will also need to make sure you lower the pH with most of these surfactants too.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - any amphoteric liquid surfactant like Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coco Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine should work, but idk since I haven't tried them
Jojoba Oil - any oil of choice
Glyceryl Oleate - this is the only refatting agent I've used, so you can try a different one, but I'm not sure how it will turn out in comparison. E.g FSS Sucrose Cocoate
Liquid Germall Plus - any water soluble preservative; e.g. optiphen ND, optiphen plus, euxyl PE 9010, geogard ECT, Geogard 221, Euxyl K 903, Tristate Eco, etc. Make sure you adjust the pH accordingly.
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