Formula
Phase A
62.9% Distilled Water
0.5% Allantoin
Phase B
10% Glycerin
0.1% Xanthan Gum Soft
Phase C
5% Ricebran Oil
Phase D
6% Distilled Water
2% DL Panthenol
2% Betaine
1% Euxyl K 900
0.5% Vitamin E
Directions;
In a sanitized heat safe beaker combine all ingredients in phase A and mix. Set to the side.
In another sanitized beaker combine all ingredients in phase B and mix.
In another heat safe beaker combine all ingredients in phase C.
Tare scale and weight phase A and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating this up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that after its heated.
Cover both phase A & C with aluminum foil and place them in a water bath (A water bath is a pan filled with an inch or so of water. Place your pan on your Stove Top on medium heat.)
Let both phase A & C heat to 70°C / 158°F. Make sure everything is melted in phase C and all powder has dissolved in phase A
Once phase A & C are heated to 70°C / 158°F. Remove phase A from heat and weigh it, replacing any water that has evaporated with distilled water. This is also when you can pour phase B into phase A and mix. We wanted to wait to add the xanthan gum slurry until all of the powdered ingredients were dissolved.
You can also remove phase C from heat.
Pour phase A/B into phase C and mix with an Immersion Blender
Come back and mix periodically as the lotion cools, but don’t mix again once it has started to thicken.
As the lotion cools you can grab another sanitized beaker to combine the phase D ingredients.
Start by combining and mixing the distilled water, DL Panthenol, & Betaine until all of the powder has dissolved then you can add in the Euxyl K 900, & Vitamin E.
Once the lotion has cooled to 40°C / 104°F you can add in the phase D ingredients and mix until everything is well combine.
Check and adjust pH If needed. The natural pH of my lotion was 5.19. You want a pH between 4.5 - 5.5
Benefits of Each Ingredient;
Glycerin - Humectant. Hydrates the skin
Xanthan Gum Soft - gelling agent that helps stabilize emulsion
Distilled Water - Diluent and is used in phase D to help dissolve the powdered ingredients.
Colloidal Oatmeal - soothing agent
Allantoin - has moisturizing, soothing, anti-irritating properties and stimulates healthy, normal tissue formation
Ritamulse SCG - all in one emulsifier. used to blend oil and water together and also thicken product to create a lotion consistency. Is an ecocert emulsifier approved for organic formulations. Is considered natural by many people, but it depends on what your definition of natural is. Vegan, Anionic, has no HLB, use between 1-10%, active in a pH between 5-7.5, Contains no ethoxylated ingredients , INCI; Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearyl Lactylate. This is personally one of my favorite emulsifiers for face products. It’s just my go to emulsifier, which is why you will see me use it often.
Cetyl Alcohol - thickener, coemulsifier, emollient and occlusive agent.
Ricebran Oil - great for moisturizing those with dry, sensitive, or irritated skin and is high in Antioxidants and Linoleic Acid.
DL Panthenol - aka vitamin B5 is an excellent humectant that hydrates and moisturizes the skin. It can help restore and maintain skins moisture.
In hair care products, it’s a film former that increases shine while hydrating the hair strand to be more elastic, more manageable, and healthier. It can thicken the hair shaft, making hair appear thicker.
Betaine - according to makingcosmetics.com “Betaine is a natural amino acid derived from sugar beets. It has superior moisturizing and water binding capacity. Regulates the water balance in the skin.”
Euxyl K 900 - Ecocert Preservative
Vitamin E - antioxidant
Substitutes;
Xanthan Gum Soft - Tara Gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum), Guar Gum, Solagum AX
Distilled water - hydrosol or aloe vera juice/liquid (cosmetic grade only)
Colloidal Oatmeal - no sub.
Allantoin - no sub
Ritamulse SCG - Emulsifying Wax NF, Olivem 1000, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol - Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol
Ricebran Oil - great for moisturizing those with dry, sensitive, or irritated skin and is high in Antioxidants and Linoleic Acid.
DL Panthenol - nio sub
Betaine - no sub
Euxyl K 900 - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative of choice. e.g. Euxyl PE 9010, Opiphen Plus, Euxyl K 903, Preservative Eco, Geogard 221
Vitamin E - no sub
Important note; Info is a quote from MakingCosmetics.com "Colloidal oatmeal is registered as an OTC skin protectant drug with the FDA (Category I, minimum concentration 0.007% and 0.003% when in combination with mineral oil). This means that if you want to sell a finished product containing colloidal oatmeal and you make a skin protectant claim (incl. rashes, eczema, poison ivy, oak or sumac, insect bites), colloidal oatmeal must then be listed under 'Active Ingredients' on the label. Also, your facility and your product must be registered with the FDA and you must operate under cGMP guidelines. However, if no skin protectant drug claims are made on the label, colloidal oatmeal is not considered a OTC drug and no registration is needed.”
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