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10% AHA + 2% BHA Peeling Solution Inspired by The Ordinary

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Disclaimer!!!! Advanced Formula. Read EVERYTHING in this post if you are  going to attempt to make this and PLEASE attempt my easier AHA or BHA formulas first. DO A PATCH TEST ON SKIN BEFORE APPLYING TO FACE!!

This product has a high amount of acid, that even when formulated properly can irritate skin. Mine is not 30% AHA like The Ordinary’s, but mine is inspired by theirs.  


  • Only attempt formula after you have read my entire post about how to formulate with AHA’s. I also have a video about how to formulate with salicylic acid I recommend watching and trying first, before attempting this. 

  • You can rework this formula and only use one of the acids. Replace the remaining percentage with water. 

  • ALWAYS check pH. The amount of pH buffer I use, will not be the same you need, but it’s a good starting point. Make a small test batch to see how much pH buffer you need. 

  • Everything in this formula could be considered natural, except for the coloring and preservative. Change preservative and leave out color for a natural formula. 

  • My Glycolic and Lactic acid are dilutions, so if I use 7.5% of Glycolic acid, it ends up being a 5% concentration in my final product.

  • You do not need to use either the gemstone extract or red dye. Those are only for aesthetic purposes. Replace with distilled water if you don’t have them. 

  • If you are missing any of the acids, just leave out and use water in place of them and replace the left over percentage with distilled water.

  • If you are making this and not using salicylic acid, then you don’t need the Poly Suga®Mulse D9 and you can add the Propanediol into phase C.

  • I made mine a THICK gel. If you want it to be thinner, use less Xanthan Gum. 


2% BHA + 10% AHA Peeling Solution 

Formula;

Phase A


Phase B

Phase C


Phase D



Directions; 

  1. In a clean sanitized heat safe container, combine both the Propanediol and Salicylic Acid. Mix until salicylic acid is somewhat dissolved, then add in the Poly Suga®Mulse D9  

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  2. Place phase A in a water bath to dissolve the salicylic acid. Come back periodically to mix and help dissolve the salicylic acid. One solution is clear, you can remove from heat. (How to make water bath: Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place it over your stove top on medium heat.)

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  3. In another sanitized beaker, combine all ingredients in phase B in order mixing between each addition. 

  4. Pour phase A into phase B and mix. (You do not need to wait for phase A to cool) 

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  5. Check temperature of product, to make sure it is not over 100°F before adding in all the ingredients in phase C, mixing after the addition of each one.

  6. In a separate beaker combine the phase D Ingredients, Glycerin & Xanthan Gum Soft and mix (this is called “creating a slurry”).  

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  7. Slowly pour phase D into your product while mixing. Over the next 5 minutes your product should thicken into a thick gel.

  8. Check ph, should be between 3.5 - 4.5 (if not then you need to adjust pH) Check out my post all about pH & how to adjust it.

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  9. Pour into desired bottle. Do a test patch on skin before using as this is a product with a   high concentration of acid. 

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How to use;

Use in the PM. Apply a thin layer to clean dry skin and let sit for 5-10 Minutes then wash away. Follow with a moisturizer. AHA’s & BHA’s increase sensitivity to the sun, so make sure you are wearing SPF for up to 2 weeks after using this product. If new to AHA’s and BHA’s I recommend starting with a much more gentle exfoliating product like my 5% Lactic Acid Toner. 



Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;


Propanediol - humectant that hydrates skin and helps dissolve salicylic acid


Poly Suga®Mulse D9 INCI:Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer - solubilizer. Helps keep salicylic acid from recrystallizing in formula


Salicylic Acid - BHA. Helps treat acne by exfoliating the skin. Stronger than AHA's


Glycolic Acid - AHA. will slough off dead skin cells revealing smoother, softer, & brighter skin. said to help with acne, dark spots, wrinkles, and much more


Lactic Acid - AHA. this is a gentle alpha hydroxy acid that helps exfoliate the skin and is more hydrating than glycolic acid. When used at a small usage rate, it acts as a humectant.


Distilled Water - Diluent


Sodium Hydroxide (50% dilution) - raises ph


Liquid Germall Plus - preservative


Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (TSGD) - chelating agent (Learn about chelating agents HERE)


Red Hematite Gemstone Extract - is described by makesy.com as “retinol-like liquid gem extract, infused with healing gemstones to promote collagen production, diminish wrinkles, and restore youthful radiance to the skin” I used this due to it’s deep red color. It’s more of a dark brownish red, but worked great for darkening the shade of this product.


Red Water Soluble Dye - I used to tint my product Red. It wasn’t dark enough, so I paired the Red Hematite Gemstone Extract with it to deepen the shade. 



Glycerin - helps hydrate and draw moisture to skin & helps create a slurry with the Xanthan Gum Soft. If you add the Xanthan Gum Soft directly into the water, it will clump. So mixing it with glycerin first, make formulating much easier.


Xanthan Gum Soft - Thickens solution into a gel.



Substitutes;





Glycolic Acid - you can use the powder version of it. Or you can use Fruit Acid Complex


Lactic Acid - you can use the powder version of it. Or you can use Fruit Acid Complex


Distilled Water - Hydrosol, Floral Water, Essence Water, or Aloe Vera Liquid


Sodium Hydroxide (50% dilution) - Triethanolamine (Baking Soda will not work)




Red Hematite Gemstone Extract - any water soluble ingredient with a deep brownish reddish shade that is stable in a pH between 3.5 - 4.5 (or leave out and use distilled water)


Red Water Soluble Dye - any water soluble skin safe red dye will work. Or leave out and use distilled water here.





100 Gram Recipe                 

Phase A


Phase B


Phase C


Phase D







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