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How to Formulate w/ Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate


 


Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

SAP is an Ecocert approved Vitamin C Derivative. So for those trying to stay natural or Ecocert, this is a great choice. It isn’t as potent of an antioxidant as L-Ascorbic Acid, but it is an antioxidant. It offers brightening effects and is actually great of oily skin types. It’s been shown to be great for those with oily sensitive skin. But it doesn’t absorb well into the skin, so use regularly! 


Formulating w/ SAP

  • White to pale yellow powder

  • Water Soluble (clear solutions at 3% or less)

  • Light & Oxygen Stable

  • Natural pH of ingredient 9-10

  • May discolor in pH levels below 6. 

  • Keep final product pH between 6-7 (also read some places it needs to be between 6.5-7)

  • Add in a chelating agent for stability

  • Heat sensitive, add below 40°C (104°F) 

  • Typical Usage Rate: 0.2% - 3% or up to 10%

  • Natural & Ecocert 



Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Serum Formula

Phase A


Phase B


Phase C


Directions;

  • In a heat safe container combine all ingredients in phase A and mix until dissolved.

  • In a separate sanitized container combine all ingredients in phase B and mix.

  • Pour phase B into Phase A while mixing.

  • In another sanitized container combine all ingredients in phase C and mix then pour into phase A/B and mix until everything is well combined and smooth.

  • Natural pH was 9 and I lowered the pH to 6.77 using a pH buffer of 50% citric acid dissolved in 50% distilled water. Learn how to create a pH buffer solution and lower the pH HERE.

  • I used this bottle to store my serum. Since SAP is not light or oxygen sensitive you don’t need to use a dark bottle or an airless pump.


How to use Serum;

Massage on to clean dry skin, let dry and follow with your moisturizer. Use AM & PM for best results.


Final thoughts: 

I like formulating with this derivative. I love that it’s Ecocert, so that makes a lot of people happy. Plus it seems to be a pretty well known derivative and has some research to back up it’s benefits. I like that it’s good for acne prone skin too. The main thing to keep in mind is the high pH of SAP,  but that’s no problem, it’s an easy fix. 



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