How to Make Lip & Cheek Stain
- taralee

- Oct 10
- 3 min read

I found this formula on makingcosmetics.com and I tweaked the formula to my liking. This is the final result
Contains Synthetic Ingredients; PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier (INCI; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), preservative Euxyl PE 9010 / Preservative 12 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin), & some Butylene Glycol is not natural. Make sure it is bio-based if you want the natural version.
The PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier (INCI; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) helps stain the pigment to skin. (You can try formulating without it if you want) or use one of the substitutions below.
If you want the product to be thicker, increase the percentage of the Tara Gum &/or the PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier.
Formula;
Phase A
5% Glycerin
0.1% PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier (INCI; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
0.5% Tara Gum (INCI; Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum)
Phase B
89.9% Distilled Water
Phase C
0.5% Euxyl PE 9010 / Preservative 12 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)
1% TKB Red Oxide Concentrate (if using powder pigment mix with glycerin and butylene glycol first) Any water soluble, lip safe colorant will work, does not need to be red.
Directions;
In a clean sanitized container, combine all ingredients in phase A and mix until all powder has dissolved.


In a separate sanitized container, add in the distilled water, then pour in phase A while mixing. If necessary, mix with an immersion blender to break up any powder. (It may froth after using the immersion blender, this is normal, it will go away overtime.)

Add in the ingredients in phase C and mix. (If using a powder pigment, mix with Glycerin and Butylene Glycol first.

Use a syringe to fill lip gloss tubes. If product is foamy on top, let sit until next day before filling lip gloss tubes.

How to use;
For Lips: Using applicator apply stain to lips. Let dry on lips, or wipe away before it dries for a lighter look. Build color by applying multiple layers. Works best when lips are freshly exfoliating and hydrated, but don’t have a layer of lip balm on or the stain won’t adhere to skin.

For Cheeks: Apply a few dots onto cheeks using the applicator and quickly blend product into skin using your finger. Build color by applying multiple layers.

100 Gram Recipe
Phase A
5 grams Glycerin
3 grams Butylene Glycol
0.1 grams PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier (INCI; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
0.5 grams Tara Gum (INCI; Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum)
Phase B
89.9 grams Distilled Water
Phase C
0.5 grams Euxyl PE 9010 / Preservative 12 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)
1 gram TKB Red Oxide Concentrate (if using powder pigment mix with glycerin and butylene glycol first) Any water soluble, lip safe colorant will work, does not need to be red.

Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;
Distilled Water - Diluent
Glycerin - helps hydrate and draw moisture to lip & helps distribute pigment if using powder pigment. (Learn all about Humectants HERE)
Butylene Glycol (Bio-based) - helps hydrate and draw moisture to lip & helps distribute pigment if using powder pigment.
PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier (INCI; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) - Thickens and helps stain pigment to skin.
Tara Gum (INCI; Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum) - Natural thickener & gelling agent.
Helps thicken lip/cheek stain for easier application
Euxyl PE 9010 / Preservative 12 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) - Lip Safe Preservative
TKB Red Oxide Concentrate - Water Soluble Lip Safe Colorant
Substitutes;
Glycerin - any other humectant of choice, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate etc.
Butylene Glycol (Bio-Based)— any other humectant of choice, Glycerin, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate etc.
PolyMulse Polymeric Emulsifier (INCI; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) - PVP, Acrylates Octylacrylamide Copolymer. Natural Options; Geogard ECT (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol & Salicylic Acid & Glycerin & Sorbic Acid), Geogard 221 (INCI: Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Water)
Tara Gum (INCI; Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum) - Xanthan Gum, Pullulan, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC), Sodium alginate (could possible work)
Euxyl PE 9010 / Preservative 12 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) - Natural options; Geogard ECT (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol & Salicylic Acid & Glycerin & Sorbic Acid), Geogard 221 (INCI: Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Water)
TKB Red Oxide Concentrate - Red No. 7 D&C Lake, more color choice HERE
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