Formula;
(I've linked to the exact ingredients I use. Except the sugar. I use Walmart Brand Sugar, but I've used this one before too and its exactly the same.)
phase A
5% Stearic Acid
2% Refined Shea Butter
23.8% Sunflower Oil
phase B
1% Flavor Oil
0.2% Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
68% White Granulated Sugar
- color of choice. You can use mica powder or lip safe lake dyes
500 gram Strawberry Lip Scrub Recipe;
phase A
25 grams Stearic Acid
10 grams Refined Shea Butter
119 grams Sunflower Oil
phase B
5 grams Strawberry Flavor Oil
1 gram Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
340 grams White Granulated Sugar
0.3 grams Red No. D&C Lake, Liquid
Directions;
Combine all ingredients in phase A in a glass bowl or metal bowl. (any container that is heat safe will work)
Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place over medium heat. Place glass/metal bowl in pan, making sure the water in the pan doesn't spill over. (empty some water from pan if that happens) I also like to place some aluminum foil over top of the bowl to avoid anything from falling in.
Once everything in phase A is melted remove from heat and dry off the bottom of the bowl and remove the foil.
Hand mix with whisk and let cool. (I keep just a little bit section uncovered so it can cool down better)
Once the lip scrub starts to thicken up a bit and the temperature is under 100°F / 37°C you can start adding in the phase B ingredients.
I start with adding in the coloring, flavor oil, vitamin E, then the sugar. Adding in a small amount of sugar at a time makes it easier to mix in.
Let sit overnight before jarring up.
If you would like, pour into piping bag, cut off tip and pipe into jars of choice. You could also use a gallon sized ziplock bag to pipe in your lip scrubs. Just fill the bag and cut off one of the bottom corners.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
Stearic Acid - thickener / hardener
Shea Butter - emollient (moisturizes the skin)
Sunflower Oil - emollient (moisturizes the skin)
Flavor Oil - adds scent to lip scrub
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) - antioxidant
White Granulated Sugar - exfoliant
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
Stearic Acid - Cetyl alcohol, Emulsifying Wax NF, Ritamulse SCG / Ecomulse, Cetearyl Alcohol
Shea Butter - Any other butter of choice
Sunflower Oil - Any plant oil or emollient ester of choice
Flavor Oil - any flavor oil of choice. (make sure they are lip safe)
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) - no substitution
White Granulated Sugar - any other sugar of choice
Troubleshooting;
If there are chunks in the lip scrub it probably means you didn't mix the lip scrub base enough as it was cooling down.
Or, if you made any substitutes then that could be the cause.
If you substituted the butter, some butters can be grainy. Melt the butter separate from everything else before adding it into the melted phase A ingredients.
If you substituted the Stearic acid it could be your choice of hardener. Since I don't know which one you used I can't offer much advice here, but if possible purchase some stearic acid. You can find it on Amazon for pretty cheap. Stearic acid is what's giving this lip scrub it's texture. So using a different hardener will give you a completely different texture. It will still work, but won't be the same as mine.
Note; You don't need to use just one oil. You can use a combination of oils if you would like.
Shop ingredients from UK Supplier
Sunflower oil UK
Unrefined Shea Butter UK
Strawberry Flavor UK
Vitamin E
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